The following afternoon , we went at Mailly Champagne , wich is an old and prestigious "societe de production " , or cooperative , founded in 1929. Patrig Morvezen , commercial director , guided us through this visit and tasting experience . He gave us his time and passion for his (fantastic) Champagne wine . Mailly is the name of the village where "Mailly Champagne " is located . The M.C. yearly output is about 45 000 bottles , from 70 hectares (1 Ha = 2.47 acres) , on this village . They have a stock of about 1.8 million bottles . As it is compulsory for Champagne wines , grape harvest is hand made . They need 5 persons during 12 days to harvest one hectare . As the quality of the wine always depends of the grapes , a lot of attention is given to them . Only perfect condition . No leaves . Last year for the first time , due to the extreme weather conditions , harvest was in august . Never happened before .
After the grapes go through the press , the resulting juice goes in tanks where the alcoholic fermentation is controlled through temperature . It stays there till the following spring , when an addition of sugar (24 grams/liter) and yeast before bottling , will lead to the second fermentation , in the bottles this time , wich will be tightly sealed by a temporary cap .
This fermentation will produce a 6 kg pressure in the bottle , plus CO2 . The fermentation will happen slowly in the cool cellars . Time is important , as well as temperature . Time allows a slow evolution wich gives time for the aromas to develop . . The carbon dioxide blocked in the bottle in high pressure is at the origin of the champagne bubbles . On the picture above , you can see an alley that opens on consecutive cellars where the bottles are stored . A plaque on the first one on the right reads "caveau des roses" Next picture shows one of these "caveaux" , where bottles are either horizontally stored , or in the riddling process .
In these underground galleries , thousands of bottles lie in the dark , ageing being a factor for the aromas , with codes written to sort them by type and age . At some point , our host shows us the dead yeast lying on one side of the bottle . He carefully holds it in the light for us to see :
In some cellars , bottles are already on riddling tables ("pupitres" in french) . That is the process of moving the lees , or dead yeast , to the top of the bottle . This is done when the years of maturing in the cellar have been completed . At this stage , dead yeast has accumulated while the bottle was lying . As they reach the manipulating table , they will periodically be moved by a manipulator , from the horizontal position to the vertical ( up side down ) to slowly bring the lees to the top of the bottle , where the cork usually is , before being expelled . An experienced manipulator here moves 7000 bottles/hour , the movement including rotation and inching toward verticality . This also is an art and you don't do that overnight . Time for this process varies , but usually bottles are manipulated over a time range of several weeks , say 5 .
The dead yeast is frozen briefly , the bottle opened and the lees disgorged . Then , the secret and precious dosage (in french : liqueur d'expedition) is injected . The composition of this additive is kept secret by all these prestigious champagne makers . The added volume is about 1 cl/bottle . Then comes the cork and the wire to keep it tight .
Then comes our tasting experience : Great .
First : The " Brut sans annee " . You always must begin by this "no year" Brut Champagne . This is the identification of a Champagne house , as every year you will recognize its specificity . This one has the typicity of Mailly Champagne , 75 % pinot noir and 25 % chardonnay . This one has maybe 50 % coming from the 2000 harvest , plus 10 % 1999 , 10 % 1998 , 10 % 1997 , 5 % 1996 and so on ...
Second : Extra Brut . 6 years in cellars . "non dosé" , o% sugar .Stays on the fruit . Not agressive at all .Natural acidity estomped with the years . Honey .
Third : Blanc de Noirs . Opposed to the precedent . Was brought back to the market in 1988 . Was not made anymore at the time . First commercialization in 1992 . Needed several years to make it , and now , well exported . Round , silky . Not a millesime , to keep the identification looked after .
Fourth : Brut Millesime 1997 . Very great wine . My best choice . Very good year in Champagne ( as opposed to Bordeaux region ) . A lot of complexity . . Honey . dry fruits . Almonds . I wanted a picture of this marvel . Here it is .
Fifth : La Terre 1996 . Milesime Vineyards 15 and 20 years old . It comes with a metal box designed by sculptor Bernard Pages .
Sixth : Brut rose .Also great . This is a maceration rose . Never the same color . Sometimes goes to the "tuile" tones . 90 % pinot noir and 10 % chardonnay .
This was indeed a great experience . Thank you !
What year was a perfect 10 for champagne - 1980 ? 87 ? 90 ? 96 ?
Can you advise please ?
Posted by: peter sheen | June 24, 2007 at 01:25 PM