November 16 2004 , Force 4 , headed by Sophie Morgaut , gathered 50 winemakers between 1 pm and 9 pm in the prestigious "Espace Cardin" in Paris (1-3 Avenue Gabriel, 8th arrondissement) right near the Elysees Palace and the UK and US embassies for a tasting event .
This was the 13th event of this kind , named "rencontres vinicoles" , that she has been organizing , with the goal to have sommeliers , restaurateurs meet outstanding winemakers . This is an invitation-only salon for professionals , mostly french , but also a few foreigners , japanese mostly , it seemed to me . .
This is happening twice a year . Contact Sophie Morgaut for information : [email protected]
At the door , you are given a badge that says if you are sommelier , restaurateur , or media , plus a glass and a tasting notebook wich lists all the invited winemakers . Inside , I runned into several people I know. Anne , for example , with whom I went to several of the stands .
First , we went to Chateau Corbin Michotte with Anne , and Jean Noel Boidron told us about the wine lanscape in France in 2004 , with the problem of huge government spending on anti alcohol campaigns while the french wine world suffers , and when red wine is increasibly considered as having a positive health role .We first tasted a white : Mayne d'Olivet Bordeaux 2001 . 40% Sauvignon Gris , 25% Muscadet and 25% Sauvignon Blanc . The Sauv. Gris is an old grape variety . Old vines here too . Dry fruits aromas . Then we had reds : Chateau Calon St Georges St Emilion 1998 and 1994 . On sunny slopes . Right time to drink the 1994 .We finished with Chateau Corbin Michotte Grand Cru Classe St Emilion Grand Cru 1999 . I don't drink such a wine every day ...
We then went to a Corsica wine stand that Anne pointed as outstanding :
Domaine Gentile . __1__(white) Patrimonio 2003 . Malvoisie grape variety (Vermentino). This grape variety adds a vivid touch to the wine .__2__ (white) Patrimonio 2003 "Cuvee Grande Expression". Skin maceration . __3__(white) Patrimonio 1997 Selection Noble . Also skin maceration .__4__ (white) Dominique Gentile "cuvee fleur" vin de table. No appellation . Muscat grape variety . __5__ (red) Domaine Gentile Patrimonio 1994 Selection Noble . 13,5° . Long maceration . 10% Niellucio .__6__ (red) Domaine Gentile, same but 2000 .__7__Dominique Gentile VDL (for vin doux liquoreux) Rappu 2001 . Muscat grape variety . 16° . Can be kept 4 months after having been uncorked (in a fridge ) . Also very long laying wine .
We then headed to Domaine des Lambrays . Thierry Broin ( Picture above, left , standing on the right ) poured the wine and talked about his wine . His business card says Regisseur-oenologist , but he adds with a smile that he does _quite_ everything.... We were pointed this stand by a japanese journalist and writer, Mrs Fukuko Hosokawa , who had just gone through his wines . __1__ (red) Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2000. Nice nose . Superb lasting experience . __2__ Clos des Lambrays 2001 . Different year. Lighter , but nice also . __3__ Clos des Lambrays 2002 . Young but very complex , yet .
On the othe side of the Salon was Chateau Coutet , and Philippe Baly (picture right , standing on the right ) , director since 1977 , presented his Sauternes-Barsac 1er Cru Classe 1997 . Beautiful Sauternes . The clay-limestone Barsac soil explains the character of this wine , with more acidity brought to this Sauternes wine . This wine is sold for 32 Euro to professionals .
I will not give all the detail of the wines we tasted . We went to Chateau Mont Redon , a domaine from Chateauneuf du Pape , then Chapoutier where we tasted 3 wines , then Chateau d'Arfeuille ( Languedoc roussillon ) .
And we ended with Domaines Ott . Christophe Renard was pouring the Domaines' wines to the visitors :
__1__ (white) Blanc de cote "Clos Mireille" Cru Classe 2002 .Ugni blanc-Semillon 50% . Made with horizontal press , 7 Kg . Minerality . __2__ (white) Blanc de Blanc 2001 . Ugni Blanc-semillon 50% too . Vertical press at 2 Kg . Served fresh (bottle in cold water bucket) , perfect . 13,5° . The INAO decided in 1952 that Blanc de Blanc wines in Provence would be "still" wine (and not sparkling wines like elsewhere) .__3__ (red) Domaines Ott Chateau de Selle "Cuvee Comtes de Provence" 2001 . 13° . __4__ (red) Domaines Ott ,Chateau Romassan, Bandol 2001 . __5__ (red) Domaines Ott Chateau de Selle , Longue Garde ("long laying down") , Cotes de Provence 1999 . Supple . Powerful . 10-20 years laying down potential .
I finished with a wine from the south western France , Domaine de la Ramaye:__1__ "Le sous-bois de Rayssac" 2003 . 50% Mauzac and Len de L'El . Late harvest . Superb . Quince , apple , pear . 12,5° .__2__" Le vin de L'Oubli" . 100% Mauzac . Close to the Jura wine feel . Very dry and very maderized .