and 3 abbeys levied taxes on it around here : Flavigny , Fontenay and Moutier-Saint-Jean . The Flavigny abbey , erected in the 7th century ( some say 606 AD ) took every 11th basket at harvest time , and the monks worked themselves on the vinification . Also , 3 times a year, the Abbey sold its wine and during these selected days , other wine dealers had to refrain from selling theirs . Vineyard surface kept increasing until the phyloxera episode ( end of 19th century ) , reaching 942 hectares in the "canton de Flavigny" in 1877 and 200 hectares in Flavigny proper (1877) . With the vineyard destruction by the phyloxera , the region took another direction, with cattle breeding grassland instead of vineyards . Until today, cattle breeding is the big activity around here, as you can check with these nice "charolaises" meat cows , known for the extra quality of their meat .
The village is on the top of a hill . It is beautifully preserved and quiet . You need to take a nice winding road from the Ozerain stream valley to reach it . The old abbey buildings still exist . This is where the Anis de Flavigny (these traditional sweets that have been around for more than 500 years) are made . And two religious orders still have a presence in other important old buildings in the medieval village : 
Benedictine monks , and a traditional catholic order .
The "Vignoble de Flavigny" ( Phone =33(0)380962563 ; fax =33(0)380962583 ), as the domaine is named , lies in the valley at the bottom of the village , as you can see on the picture at the top . There is today only this vineyard , and another a few kilometers away , in the Auxois region . It was created in 1994 to bring viticulture back to life in a region that had in the past a respectable wine producing tradition . Only 10 years after its resurrection, its wines are promising . We dropped there several times over the years and recently had one of their reds ( Pinot Noir 2002 ) for dinner . A pleasure . Another example of these surprising northern reds . I wanted to buy a few bottles more, and why not make an article about the place, as it is not well known , being out of the busiest wine roads .
The architecture of the place itself is interesting . The tasting room and store is in a long abbey-like building , glassed on the courtyard side , with view on the other buildings of the chai . We first stopped in the vineyard where we got a glimpse on the vines and the rare lyre trellising that is practiced here ( picture right ) . Temperature was 0 °C , cold !
All their wines are labelled as "Vin de Pays", as they are located out of the existing appellations . Another strange side effect of this appellation system that prevents these Burgundy wines from having "Bourgogne" written on the labels . The good side effect ( for us ) is they are cheaper . I bought another 6 bottles of "Vignoble de Flavigny Pinot Noir 2002" , wich tasted just as good , at 6 Euro . I took also 2 bottles of "Vignobles de Flavigny Auxerrois 2002" , a white (Auxerrois is the name of the grape variety ) that was selected by the Hachette wine guidebook . Nice round wine, also 6 Euro . Among their other wines , they have oak cask Pinot Noir 2002 at 8 Euro , Pinot Noir Reserve 2002 at 7 Euro, Pinot Beurot (rosé)2003 at 5 Euro, Chardonnay 2001 (white) 7 Euro, Pinot Beurot Blanc (white) 2001 at 6,20 Euro, plus two sparkling wines ( white and rosé) at 5,5 Euro .
Oenologist Cyril Raveau receives us and explains the work after our tasting . He is about 30 years old and completed his studies in Dijon and worked on several reputed vineyards . The Flavigny vineyards were planted on slopes with south and south east exposure . Clay-limestone soil with thick granulation favorable for noble and quality vines . Lyre trellising, wich is usually experimental , is systematically used here : It consists in two arms opening at shoulder height , and allowing for a better exposition of the leaves to the light . It allows quality plus yields, with research-proven positive impact on vine growth period and maturation period . Experimentations were conducted by the ATVB ( a french vineyard techniques bureau ) and the INRA at Dijon ( french agro engineering research entity), as well as at Domaine Henri Latour ( Auxey-Duresses ) . INAO , the french appellation authority , refuses to allow its use , as it will change the personality of the wines , thus departing from the existing tradition . In Flavigny , as their wines are labelled "Vin de Pays" ( and are outside of the regulated appellations ) , they are free to use the lyre trellising as they like . 3300 vines/hectares here as opposed to 10 000 elsewhere .Smaller density partly compensated by the presence of two vine arms ( lyre ) instead of one . Yield here is 35-37 hectoliters/hectare for reds . 50-60 hecto/ha for whites . As vin de pays , they are allowed to have 80 hecto/ha .
All harvest is hand done , with baskets . Sorting tables sometimes , like this year for the Pinot Noir grapes . Destemming for reds . And this year , separate vinification for the two expositions of the lyre , on all reds and part of the Chardonnay . Here they grow a tiny plot of Cesar , a rare red grape variety , that they vinified on carbonic maceration to limit tannins, wich in Cesar can be too strong . We taste the Cesar 2004 from the vat . We are warned of the surprise . This is one , but not a disagreeable one . The Cesar 2003 will soon be bottled and on sale here . Small volumes , though .
I can't but post a few pictures shot in Flavigny . As I came there alone two days earlier on Christmas day, the village was quiet and people enjoyed staying warm inside . I wandered in the narrow streets and a grey cat literally followed me , stopping as I took pictures , turning right or left if I did ... He was showing me around !
Dear Sir
My name is Piotr. I am a student from Poland and I am looking for some work in September and October. I spoke to a friend of mine who told me that You may need some workers in your plantation in this period of time.
I am wondering if you need a couple of workers this year. By a couple of workers I mean: me, my girlfriend and a friend of
mine. We all are students in the age of 21.
I would be grateful if You let me know about your decision as soon as possible. Below the text there are our names and surnames.
If you need some more information about us please let me know and I will answer as fast as I can.
PIOTR CIELECKI
DOMINIKA CHYLINSKA
MAGDALENA CHUMIEJA
We will be able to start work in the begining of September.
I look forward to hearing from You.
Best wishes
> Piotr Cielecki
Posted by: Piotr Cielecki | July 14, 2005 at 02:57 PM