Pierre Jancou runs the place since 2002. He was previously a cook, runned an italian restaurant in Montmartre, then left for Italy in 1999 before coming back in 2002 and buying this place.
As he has always been fond of fine, natural food, he learned about wine on the job, and natural wines (not only organicly grown, but also vinified with little or no intervention) were an evidence for him, along his tastings of different wines in the food and wine fairs, in France and Italy. Italy is home to great artisanal food, and his italian experience and connections, his love for these products, explain his frequent expeditions with his van down there, to haul back the troves you will eat at la Cremerie. He usually begins his trips with Piedmont, which is also home to some of the best italian wines, then Emilie-Romagna (Parma, Modena, Bologna) and Tuscany, buying on the way all sorts of charcuteries, prosciutto, coppa, finochiona, culatello, panetta, and some wine.
The place is not big, he sits 17 people, including the ones at the counter, and it is wise to reserve for fridays and saturdays (closed sunday-monday). But the place is an architectural gem in addition to its slow food and natural wines.
So, La Cremerie being a wine store, you can choose and buy among the roughly 240 different labels (from 70-80 wineries). The bottles are displayed on shelves on both sides. The Loire and Burgundy are well represented in his selection. He has also the chance to have a deep cool cellar a few buildings away with hundreds more bottles waiting their turn in the dark (picture on the right, where he holds a "Plume D'Ange" from "les cailloux du Paradis"). If you want to drink on the spot, there are usually 2 whites and 2 reds by the glass, and the selection changes every other day. And you can drink a bottle you purchased on the shelves with an additional cork fee of 6 Euro, which is a good deal when you want to have a drink with friends, especially that many of the bottles are in the 10-20 Euro price range.
Because of beverage license reasons, you must order a plate of charcuterie or cheese with your wine. The first time I visited (with friends Mark and Ann, from Newcastle), I remember having an olive-oil drizzled delicate salad and thin slices of Parma with my glass of wine. This was 18 months ago. At lunchtime, Pierre makes a "plat du jour", and the evening dinner is with italian charcuteries and cheeses solely.
The place is opened tuesday to saturday, 10am to 10pm and is closed in august and the 1st week of january, which leaves Pierre some time to spend with his 2 (and soon 3) kids.