Alain Burguet's winery and cellars are located in the middle of the village. This is the delivery season and he is busy these days. Plus, summer was very short this summer and the harvest started september 6. He actually began to harvest sep 8 himself. Asked about his reputation for harvesting much later than other growers, he says that he doesn't consider the 100-day (between the blossom and the harvest) rule as compulsory and this year for example it was more like 108 days. 100 days are not enough for phenolic maturity, a maturity which needs time, he says. You can have the right sugar level and no phenolic maturity, and starting to harvest just because the sugar is there is sometimes a mistake. What really matters before starting to harvest is to get ripe tanins and good phenols.
As you may know, his vineyard is organicly farmed but he doen't trumpet it. He actually never fell in the trap of the viticultural chemical treatments, even during the intensive-spraying era of the 1970s' ans 1980s', when everyone around was dumping tons of this and that between the rows. It was in his genes, he says, he never trusted the chemical way to tend his vineyard. He remembers that in these years there were only 3 vignerons like himself and they were looked down on. He even clearly recalls an Agriculture-Council representative in Beaune saying flatly at that time that the weedkillers were not dangerous and were totally biodegradable in the soil. He would be very interested to know what the same person says today...
We follow Alain Burguet in the cellar which is divided into two large cask rooms, one for the 2006 wines and the other for the 2007. One of these rooms has been dug last year to augment the cellar capacity. His wine range consists of 10 different wines year after year.
__Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites 2006. From a cask. Very aromatic nose. Ripe cherry, some raspberry. Light fizziness in the mouth. Nice balance.
__Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites 2007 [picture above]. A bit pearly. The cask has been topped-up recently and you can literally see the bubbles coming out of the wine [pic on left]. The malolactic fermentation has started here, making the fruit less prominent. Still, nice dark cherry aromas. His 2007 wines will resemble to his own 2005 millesime. Some of his neighbors has lots of roten grapes probably because they plowed in august which set off untimely strength in the vines, which in turn translated into roting grapes. He brought less grapes in in 2007 (30% less than in 2006) because of a heavy hailstorm july 9th.