Paris Wine Bars : le Petit Vendôme

Le Petit VendômeLa Madeleine, Paris.
Welcome in Paris' financial district. Well, it doesn't look like being there but it sure does. Paris financial district certainly dwarfs compared to the City, Wall Street or Frankfurt, but still, there must be financiers doing some kind of big-money business here or it wouldn't be called a financial district. Isn't it a better time to write a story about a wine bar stucked in the middle of the quartier financier than when a full-blown financial crisis is under way ? We live in thrilling times full of inspirations for an observer and I still wonder how someone could say that the End of History had come. From the moment he published his theory, historical events have been cascading at an accelerating speed... All these events and unsettling chain reactions ask for a compensatory relaxed-moment with a glass on wine, and it seems that the financiers have not balked at doing that. Lots of people are excited these days in the face of this turmoil, with some coming back from the grave thinking their arch-enemy, the finance capitalism is about to be defeated, an exotic religion seeing a chance for its segregated banking system, and statists seeing an opportunity for more state control and intrusion. For example, We've had a stepping up of attacks on this side of the Atlantic against Switzerland and Luxembourg (which have nothing to do with this crisis), which France and Germany view as the last barrier that prevents them from levying even more taxes from their citizens. On the street level, if this crisis may result on orders for luxury cars being put on hold among the high-flying financiers, this may be business as usual for the neighborhood wine bar "le Petit Vendôme" (map), an Island gem of a bar which departs so much from the stylish venues of la Madeleine. Despite the financial crisis and roller coaster stock market, local professionals find room for real-world earthy pleasures like Auvergne cuisine, saucisson on good bread and a glass of wine.

Lively sidewalkHere we are between la Madeleine and Place Vendôme, a few blocks that certainly constitute one of the most upscale office real-estate in Paris. I fell upon this bar a couple of years ago by chance as I walked along this side street and couldn't believe my eyes, here was a bougnat-looking cafe that seemed to come straight from the 1960s', wine, charcuterie and hams hanging and this easy-going feel that could fit workers as well as executives. And I like to come back, not for the wines actually but for the whole experience, and I'm not alone to do so : From afar when you approach from the bar, you see often all these people standing outside with a glass and chatting, you think there's some sort of opening/vernissage going on, but it's just that it's full and people overflow on the sidewalk.Careful with the glass of wine The other day I went there after work and wormed my way to an available spot at the counter. On my left were three business looking guys that behaved as if they knew the place for years and on my right these two guys checking things on their wi-fi-enabled laptops, one of them was an auction broker at Tajan, and he showed me the next day's sale, a private collection of Hugo Pratt's memorablia and drawings (Pratt was a well-known illustrator and painter whose comic books won a large following). As I sipped a glass of Régnié I was thinking of the contrast between this timeless bar and these wired people who dropped there for a break.Three young financiers having a breakThe bar has somehow managed to keep the traditional French conviviality and even if you drop there for the first time, you melt quickly into the atmosphere, with either Christian Gaudin, the owner and inspirator of the place, or Jean-Michel (say Jean-Mi) later in the day as Maître des lieux. Same with the people you sit near, it is quite easy to start a conversation here, that's the magic of the place. Like many bars and café owners in Paris, Christian Gaudin comes from the central France mountains, from Corrèze exactly, where he was initially a butcher, so don't be surprised to find his personnal selection of charcuterie "imported" from these remote regions. Actually most cafe/bar owners in Paris came historically from these cold Auvergne mountains, and these Auvergnats used to bring along their regional products. Christian took over this bar in 1996 and brought this concept of a bar with a list of wines and generous Charcuterie plates or sandwiches. The butter for the sandwiches comes from Normandy under the shape of a big block. The cheese list includes the rustic Cantal cheese. The bread comes from Julien, one of the best boulangerie in Paris. It is hard not to order a sandwich or a plate with some of these products to go with your glass of wine when you sit at the bar with a direct view on these promising delicacies. They are listed on a black board : Jambon à l'os, jambon de pays, saucisson sec, saucisson à l'ail, rillettes, confit de foie de porc, Cantal, St-Néctaire, Bleu, Camembert, Fourme d'Ambert (3,9 Euro each). Then : Friton, Pâté persillé, , Andouille, Roquefort, Terrine du moment (4,6 Euro each). Jambon de Bourgogne, spécial Jean Mi (5,70 Euro). Jambon de pays, chèvre frais.
Sandwiches are served all day, but for lunch, there are also a few serious dishes, 16 of them were listed on the blackboard the last time I went there, among them Pied de Cochon grillé (15 Euro), Confit de Canard Maison (15 Euro), Civet de Porc au St Pourçain (15 Euro), and Andouillette AAAAA (15 Euro). A sign full of promisesThe wines :
One of them has a central place here : the Saint Pourçain, and you can have a glass of white Saint-Pourçain or red Saint-Pourçain for 1,8 Euro (10cl) or 3,6 Euro (20cl). You might have guessed it, Saint-Pourçain (see map on the right) is a wine Appellation from Auvergne in the central mountains of France. Technically, it is part of the Loire region, although very far on its eastern wing. The Saint-Pourçain white is a blend of Tressailler, Chardonnay and eventually Sauvignon. The reds are a blend of Gamay/Pinot Noir. The Saint-Pourçain also has its own Saint-Pourçain-Nouveau phenomenon (since 1987), which happens on the very first days of december (fête de la ficelle). That's when vignerons from Auvergne come to Paris and serve their new wine in bars (managed by Auvergnats of course...). With only 500 hectares of surface, I'll trust more the nouveau wines of this tiny Appellation than most of the mass production sold under the B*****-Nouveau (read my lips) thing... I had a red the other day there and liked its mouth, gentle and fruity, it spoke to me as a nice little wine that went well with the saucisson.
The choice of wines by the glass is 7 whites, 2 rosés (including a Saint-Pourçain "gris") and 11 reds. A few wines of this list other than the Saint-Pourçain wines :
Whites : Turaine Domaine Charmoise 2006 (2,2/4,6 Euro for 10cl or 20cl), Quincy Jacques Siret 2007 (2,4/4,8), Menetou Salon Joseph Mellot 2007 (2,4/4,8), Pinot Gris Ruhlmann Alsace 2006 (2,3/4,6).
Reds : Chinon les Chatelières 207 (2,3/4,6), Cotes de Brouilly Lafond 2007 (2,3/4,6), Morgon Domaine Chanet (2,3/4,6), Crozes-Hermitage Cave de Tain 2005 (2,4/4,8) and a few others...Elie Semoun at the OlympiaAnd if you want to add some pepper to your evening, go see Elie Semoun at the Olympia nearby on Boulevard des Capucines. The guy is probably the best humorist on the French scene these days, although you may have to be French to really enjoy his shows and sketches.. See the crowd waiting for his show. Le Petit Vendôme8 rue des Capucines75001 ParisMetro : Madeleine (line 8/12 /14)Phone : 01 42 61 05 88Map directions

Comments

[Frank L Machover]

I have been reading your wineblog for a while, and appreciate your insights.

I am a small wholesaler of French Wines (only) in the Virgin Islands and you keep me in touch with the French Scene.
Thanks

Frank