Wine Tasting, Vineyards, in France

Chateau Gasqui (Provence)

François Miglio in the vineyard

Gonfaron, Var (Provence)
October-early november is certainly a very nice month to be in Provence, there are fewer tourists there at this time although the side roads are still busy with locals who often live in a village and commute to work in developped areas. We were in the middle of our couple of weeks there when the 2nd lockdown order was announced. I had two other visits planned in the area and could barely make this one by advancing the date at the last minute (the other ones will be for next time). In summer you can barely ride a motorbike in the day time because it's so hot, in october-november (and certainly september) it's much better especially inland where it's less populated and the light is so beautiful most of the time. The domaine is located between Gonfaron and Flassans-sur-Issole in the Var département, a region with valleys and rolling wilderness prone to forest fires every summer, although there hasn't been any big one these last few years, possibly thanks to preventive forest and undergrowth management.

Chateau Gasqui is interesting in many ways, first, the domaine is farmed on biodynamics, second it has quite a large surface with 32 hectares in production (it's always worth to keep in mind that this type of respectful and holistic farming is not reserved for tiny surfaces), and third (and this is not the least important reason), the domaine isn't a rosé-centered one like alas many wineries of the region, it is working hard to make beautiful, long-élevage reds, something most commercial wineries in the region have renounced because rosé is so easy and profitable. As a side note : in spite of favorable climate conditions, there are only 3 Demeter-certified biodynamic wineries on Côtes de Provence, Chateau Gasqui, Clos Réal and Domaine des Fouques, which make less than 80 hectares altogether compared to the 20 000 hectares of the appellation...

Vendanges 2020 (part 3)

Soft power

Cher valley, Touraine (Loire)
I also went three times at Les Maisons Brûlées where Paul Gillet and wife Corinne where in the middle of their harvest season, or rather toward the end actually as much of it was already behind us. I love riding to their wine farm, it's a dead-end road in the hills above Pouillé, and the Gillet family must be so quiet there around the year. I shot this short video the 2nd time I went there, They were picking the parcel below the farm, surrounded by woods on this gentle slope. Paul Gillet told me they began to pick august 22, and ending was around 14 or 15 september. They got some grillure on the grapes, especially on the Gamay (because this variety grows less foliage).

Vendanges 2020 (part 2)

Estelle and François Saint-Leger

Monthou-sur-Cher, Touraine (Loire)
I had dropped unannounced a couple of times at the cellar of Estelle and François Saint-Leger along the road between Thésée and Monthou-sur-Cher but no one was there, they were either busy picking or it was a day with no picking planned, so I texted them and could come when they'd were there. I had barely parked the motorbike that they were arriving with Estelle's father and a trailer pulled by his car, full of red grapes, namely Cabernet Franc. I was to witness a foot stomping by Estelle near the door of the cool cellar in the bottom of a tank, with the aim to make a vibrant pied de cuve with indigenous yeast. This was yet a very nice, pretty warm september day.

Both Estelle and François have trained in the wine school of Amboise and their first vintage was 2014, they grow quietly their bottling share along the years, selling the grapes they don't vinify to same-minded vintners like Les Capriades or Pierre-Olivier Bonhomme. They have a young baby and Estelle had to be in time at home that day to pick up her child from the nanny.

Vendanges 2020 (part 1)

Aunis & Gamay flowing

Mareuil-sur-Cher, Cher valley (Loire)
Here are a few images and videos shot during the harvest and first vinification work while visiting a few vignerons in the Loire, more precisely in the Cher valley. I'd not bother to call as I knew everyone was busy, I'd just drop by on my motorbike and see what was happening (the weather was so nice, it helped a lot). I took a few minutes to ask the winemakers how this vintage had been showing until then, and you'll see that on the whole 2020 seems to be a pretty good year. The harvest could unfold along several weeks and there were discrepancies between the beginning of the picking, some had finished, some had a couple of parcels to pick while some were in the middle of the thing...
Here this is at Julien Pineau, the maceration tank with Aunis and Gamay is going to be devatted and the free-run juice first flows out. What a beautiful view....

Le Champ du Possible (French Alps)

Jacques Pierre in front of his wine farm

Laragne-Montéglin, Haute Provence
This story is taking place in Jean Giono country at the border of Haute Provence and Hautes Alpes in a region south of Grenoble at mid altitude, with warm summers but cool nights, this is not the Provence you might think about, these are remore lands with scarce population and harsh climatic conditions that have shaped along the centuries a hard working local with an enduring and austere character. The region is not known for its wines but there's a small production with a few vignerons, some of them making natural wine like Jacques Pierre. Jacques came to the region because he is a hang-gliding pilot and instructor (Haute provence, Alps and Savoie are sought-after regions for outdoor fanatics in France). For a living he wanted initially to open a multiservice business for the quiet months (he masters carpentry, plumbing and other trades) but the French administration doesn't help aspiring artisans by asking many certificates and diplomas, so he decided to make wine instead.

Jacques settled in this bastide or farm a year ago (early september 2019), just in time for the harvest that took place september 19 in his Rhône parcel in Violes. The farm sits isolated in a valley (look at that scenery on the right, indeed a perfect setting for a Giono novel), it had all the features of an old farm with a large cellar where wine was made and stored, he's renovating it little by little but has already begun to make wine, both from local parcels and from the ones from the Rhône. See how small the windows are on this bastide, this is the typical architectural feature in harsh temperature conditions.
Pic on left : courtesy of Jacques Pierre

Romain des Grottes (Beaujolais)

In the parcel next to the wine farm

Saint-Étienne-des-Oullières (Beaujolais)
We're here in the Beaujolais visiting Romain des Grottes, this is another of my backlog stories, it took place at the turn of july and august while riding on motorbike from Paris to Provence using non-toll highways. This year has been difficult in some regards in France with the pandemic and the economic consequences of the lockdowns but what a weather we had to counterbalance this misery ! Just a wonderful, sunny year from spring to autumn and I think it's healthy to see the good side of things in a time where it's easy to complain and see doom at the door. Beaujolais is a great region to ride through, with gentle winding roads passing through old villages harmoniously nestled in the hilly landscape.

Romain des Grottes began his Domaine des Grottes in 2001 using 6,5 hectares of vines owned by his family, his first vintage being 2002 where he made 3 cuvées, one long keep with some élevage and 2 primeurs. In 2003 he did about the same, and he sold in bulk what he didn't bottle to a négociant with who his grandfather had already been working. But in 2004 the négoce didn't buy his wines [they had gotten too real and alive for him ?] and he never heard from this buyer again, which somehow helped Romain find himself more customers that could appreciate the wines he was making. Romain and his wife Perrine Stas farm organic and biodynamic (using very little sulfur/copper) on a 6-hectare surface plus a couple hectares for medicinal plants. Romain & Perrine also run Elixir Lab which produces all sort of herbs, plants, tea and other products grown here on the land.

Le Nez dans le Vert (Jura)

Jean-Baptiste Menigoz with Florien

Abergement le Petit, Jura
This is an iconic wine event that has been taking place for around 10 years in spring, Le Nez dans le Vert is a wine fair organized by Jean-baptiste Menigoz and gathers a few producers of the region making natural wine and Jura wine lovers including dedicated importers. The website states that Jura is the organic-most wine region of France as of 2014, with 14 % of the vineyard surface farmed organic, versus 8 % nationwide.

This year because of the lockdown this was not possible to have the wine fair in march but they could not bring themselves to go without anything in 2020 and decided to set something up in summer, when things eased, with 23 vignerons among the 48 organic growers of the region. They didn't communicate too much about this improvised fair that took place the 14th of July, so that there weren't crowds, plus they spread the tasting in 4 locations including Les Bottes Rouges (more details here). the fee for the day was a mere 2 €, can you believe that ? Jura rocks...
We showed up at the end of the day after these exciting visits at several domaines, just in time for the barbecue and friendly dinner, sharing the long tables with some of the best vignerons of Jura, what a treat! For the wines there was such a choice I limited myself (so to say...) to the reds so as not to finish on my knees. Here are a few pics of this evening, I put my job on the side for a few hours and didn't take any notes, sorry...

Domaine Bruyère-Houillon (Jura)

Renaud Bruyère

Pupillin, Jura
Adeline Houillon and Renaud Bruyère have been building their domaine along the years in Pupillin outside Arbois, starting in 2011 with less than one hectare located in Arbois and with a surface today of 5 hectares stretched between Pupillin and Arbois, but Renaud says there downsizing back to 4 hectares next year because they have enough surface that way (he adds they prefer to make less, but better). Adeline who is the sister of Emmanuel Houillon has been learning while working with her siblings at Domaine Overnoy with Emmanuel and Aurélien. Renaud who is originally from the Rhône (Tain-L'Hermitage, he was a cook there and met Adeline in the rhône) worked with Emmanuel now and then from 2004 to 2007 while refurbishing this house and then with Stéphane Tissot along 7 years from 2007 to 2015 (he kept working there after starting their domaine). Adeline and Renaud live literally next door to Houillon-Overnoy and vinify their wines in their cellar under their house which has an old rusted sign reading Vins Fins (fine wines). They vinify naturally, don't filter or add anything in the wine and farm their vineyards organic and sometimes with biodynamie.

They vinify everything in parcellaire with 4 varieties altogether : Chardonnay, Savagnin for the whites, and Ploussard and Trousseau for the reds, the parcels being located in roughly 3 zones : Arbois-Pupillin with a specific terroir of triassic marls, Then Arbois with its Lias clays and Montigny-lès-Arsures with also Lias clays, but that's the one they'll drop next year. To be precise they also have a limestone terroir, Les Tourillons (a light soil with limestone scree).

Thomas Popy (Jura)

In the cellar

Mesnay, Jura
Just outside arbois (the small road from Arbois to this tiny village is yet another reason to fall in love with this area) on the east side there's the village of Mesnay where we visited a vigneron, Thomas Popy who started his production very recently (in 2015). You reach the village (see view of the main street on right) by following more or less the winding course of the river 1,8 km from town, this river also flowing through Arbois. Thomas, who is a Beaujolais native (Villefranche) has been trained by the vignerons he worked with, people in the Beaujolais like Julie Balagny (around 2010-2011), then Jean-Claude Lapalu (18 months) and Michel Guignier (8 months), or Jean Delobre in the Rhône (Ferme des 7 Lunes) then when he settled in the Jura Houillon/Overnoy and Céline/steve Gormally.

While in the Jura he studied at the Montmorot wine school (40 km south of Arbois). He makes wines from a couple hectares, he started with buying a parcel to Etienne Thiébaud, he now works from just a couple of vineyards and we were all particularly impressed by his whites.
Thomas lives with his family in a beautiful house along the river (which has more the size of a creek than a river) with a grassy garden and a deep, deep cellar, meaning the people of this region were serious when keeping their wines. I heard his production is quite small and his wines hard to get, so don't wait the bottles are sold out if you stumble on some.

Bistrot des Claquets (Jura)

Arbois rocks !

Arbois, Jura
If there had to be just a single reason why I love the little town of Arbois in the Jura (but there are plenty of other reasons), this could be because it's the home of the Bistrot des Claquets, a homy bar-restaurant with an exciting wine list of artisan vintners. Started by Claudie Peseux years ago, it recently changed hands last june with Rachel Gariglio taking the wheel. Rachel has been an active staff there for years, so we can be confident that the Claquets will remain the familiar and affordable eatery where natural-wine lovers will rest and resource.
This small story with pictures from my phone will get you a quick impression of the place, but first, beyond its natural-wine list, the food is home made with good ingredients and the price is very affordable, like 14 € for entrée & dish.

Other reasons to love Arbois ? People are easy going and not stressed, the woods and nature begin just at the end of the street, you can literally walk to there (see on this picture above), the streets are family friendly and safe (light years from what major French cities have become over the last few years), the city isn't disfigured by shopping centers in its immediate vicinity (see satellite image) unlike many small French towns, cars aren't considered public enemy #1 (very few anti-parking posts) and the street houses haven't been over-renovated nor sterilized/gentrified (like Beaune), yielding a feel of a real city where people of all means do live...