
The place, which has been run by Pierre Jancou since 2002, is now managed by Serge Mathieu and his wife Helene. The spirit is very similar : Serge serves and sells mostly artisan wines made from organicly-farmed vineyards (90% of the wines here are natural, non-interventionist wines) with samely artisanal charcuterie and cheese imported from Spain, Italy and some french provinces.
Born in New York, he lived all his life in France and is an architect by training. He discovered the natural wines, loved them and decided to make a profession of that love. He stayed a while (several months) with Olivier Camus (at le Chapeau Melon, a wine bar in Paris), whom he says is one of the best wine tasters in Paris. Then he discovered by chance La Cremerie, an already-converted former dairy shop located on a side street near Odeon in Paris. Pierre Jancou, who was running the place, was not selling at the time but Serge felt that this was the place. He proposed his help and worked several more months with Pierre to get more experience and expertise. He finally acquired the store in 2006. His wife Helene, also an architect, joined and she helps with the wine as well as with the food.
The concept of the place is to be both a wine bar and a wine store. You can walk in, choose a bottle, pay and walk away. You can also drink a glass from the wine-by-the-glass selection, or buy a bottle from the shelves, pay an extra 6 Euro (cork fee) and drink it there. Because of the License, you must order something to eat with the wine, wether cheese or a saucisson plate for example.




Several Saucissons and Jambons hang over the counter. Saucissons from the Aveyron (from a small place in northern Aveyron named Mur de Barrez), then saucissons from Ardèche, the Lot, all three being french departements well-known for their artisan charcuterie. Also chorizo, and ham from Spain : "Jamon Iberico de Bellota" first, from Salamanca, a high quality ham made from free-range, acorn-fed Iberian pigs. And "Jamon Iberico de Recebo", a lightly lesser ham, from acorn-, pasture- and compound-fed Iberian pigs. Serge says that he is the only one in Paris to have this quality of Bellota.

Speaking about the wines he has in the store, he tells me the names that flash through his mind : Pat Desplats ( Domaine des Griottes), Claude Courtois (les Cailloux du Paradis), Antoine Joly (Domaine Roche Bussière and his Gaia), Mas de Gourgonnier (Baux de Provence), Sebastien Riffault and his Sancerre, Mas Foulaquier (pic saint loup), La Treille Muscate

He says that one of his most sought-after wines are the "Pet'Nat wines (petillants naturels), or natural sparkling wines, like "foudre d'Escampette" by Jean Marc Brignot, and Moussaillon from the Domaine des Griottes.
He also has some Champagnes, including a few bottles from a very small cuvée of Champagne : from Jérome Prevost, a Sélosse follower, he got 6 bottles from a 1000-bottle cuvée .

Meanwhile, Helene pours me a glass of Michel Augé's "L'Erèbe", a Cabernet-Franc-Cot Table Wine from the Loire, with a few words of Aristophane on the back label :
"La nuit aux ailes noires déposa un oeuf né du vent, dans le sein du sombre et profond Erèbe". I actually visited his estate. Michel Augé told me then Erèbe means "chaos and renaissance". Very aromatic wine, with new notes emanating from the glass after 10-15 minutes while we chat.
Serge and Helene have four children.
I just returned from a week in Paris and was fortunate enough to have taken two meals at La Cremerie. Serge and Helene are delightful people and the food and wine are superb. As a former wine retailer in the US (Astor Wine and Spirits in NYC), I can tell you that choosing the right mix of wines is not as easy it looks. This store/restaurant has a perfect selection. For me, visiting was no great challenge since I was staying at a hotel around the corner (Esprit St. Germain), but visiting La Cremerie is well worth a detour.
Posted by: Howard Lieberman | March 12, 2007 at 07:24 PM
La Cremerie has become one of our favorite places in Paris. The room is very welcoming as are Serge and Helene. My wife and I spend about three months a year in Paris and stop by La Cremerire several times a month. The food is excellent and Serge is very helpful with the selection of very good and reasonably priced wine.
Posted by: David Jaffre | April 02, 2007 at 01:43 PM
My daughter, a Parisienne, showed us La Cremerie and it is wonderful. Serge makes you feel at home and the wine is superb. Will definitely be back.
Posted by: Jeff Sanders | April 04, 2007 at 01:33 AM
I lived in Paris as a child, my father was foreign service, and I remember it being a very happy time. Paris is such a wonderful place, and every visit back makes me wish I could live there at least part-time. Thank you for this wonderful blog, keep the great pictures coming.
Posted by: Rebecca Snyder | January 21, 2008 at 03:54 PM
I lived in Paris many years ago and fell in love with everything about it, I have since taken my partner back at least once a year and she has fallen in love with paris & wants to live there.
We are returning in December and will definateley be visiting La Cremerie
Thank you for the information
Posted by: Bernard Davey | October 24, 2008 at 02:52 PM
My wife and i visit Paris every September and always visit Serge's great shop. Sometimes for dinner, sometimes for a glass-bottle and a nibble,sometimes for a glass ,nibble and restaurant suggestion! Being in the wine industry myself,his suggestions are always spot on.Serge and his wife both speak English very well.So do not be intimidated of your French is either sketchy or non existant.They will make you welcome either way.
Posted by: John White | December 23, 2008 at 04:13 AM
La Cremerie was one of my must stops while in Paris due to your suggestion ... it was wonderful . Thanks for the great tip , will be going back every time this Texan hits town .
Posted by: Cathy Buetow Schroeder | November 17, 2009 at 02:56 PM
After I graduate as a gift to myself for 2 years of hard work (single mom) I plan a trip to Paris. Le Cremerie is at the top of my list of places to visit oh and thanks for mentioning the nearby hotel - Esprit St. Germain - Mr. Lieberman. ;-)
Posted by: Theresa Mack | November 21, 2009 at 06:11 PM
After I graduate as a gift to myself for 2 years of hard work (single mom) I plan a trip to Paris. Le Cremerie is at the top of my list of places to visit oh and thanks for mentioning the nearby hotel - Esprit St. Germain - Mr. Lieberman. ;-)
Posted by: | June 15, 2010 at 10:38 AM
My husband and I visited Le Cremerie recently on a very cold February. We were welcomed on two occasions with wonderful food and wine. Oh, please don't miss the rice pudding. Le Cremerie turned our cold day into a warm experience. We will go back whenever we are in Paris.
Posted by: Carol Spedaliere | February 15, 2012 at 12:36 AM