
Mid-january, somewhere in the Loire along a side road.
At about this time of the year in many regions in France, a remnant of the past discreetly lingers, before fading away : the mobile distillery has set up shop for a couple of weeks for those with a right to distillate their fruits, or the grape must and lees from their individual vineyard plot. You still can see such similar-looking mobile alambics, named "ateliers publics" in rural France, like the one on this page about an "atelier" in the "Pays d'Othe", a wooded region between Paris and Burgundy.
Making their own alcohol has been a millenary tradition for people in the french provinces, unregulated by the law until Napoleon. Then new restricting laws came in, like in 1914 when the "bouilleur de cru" status was created, allowing the people in the countryside owning an orchard or a vineyard plot to continue their family production with a 20 liter "eau de vie" maximum limit. The family right was passed down to the next generation, allowing the "bouilleurs de cru" to perpetuate the tradition. This right to distillate, called "acquit", is not inheritable anymore since 1953. The reason behind the ever-more-restricting laws was both the fight against alcoholism and the greed of the french state, which did not view positively the untaxed alcohol made in private homes. This has been a largely self-punishing policy from the french authorities because the quality of this millenary private production is well-known and the restrictive laws deprived us from a rich and diverse economic production.
The mobile unit seen on this page is one of the dwindling few still operating. It has the authorization of the french state, namely of the administration arm overlooking everything alcohol-related : the French Customs : The French Customs check everything in relation with wine- and alcohol production, and it collects the afferent taxes.

I probably passed this alambic every winter on the same patch of road without noticing its use. From a passing traveller, it looks like a trailer or a cabin used to store machinery, and in the evening, a bleak neon adds to its unattractiveness. I did notice that there were always a couple or more cars parked in the mud nearby but didn't look further, until a local told me about it maybe two years ago, giving me a chance to learn about this little-known french tradition. I mean, I knew like most french people the words "bouilleur de cru", but had no clue about how people made their "eau de vie" as it is very rarely shown or explained in the media.


There were several people there, in addition to the two who were working on the old machine. Imagine an old rusty machine sitting near heaps of dumped fruit-waste and must, with all sort of pipes, the rumbling vibrations from the heater, and a couple of steam leaks adding to the hellish picture...The man in

The 1930 alambic used to be heated with wood originally but a diesel heater has been adapted to it for better heating stability.

The fruits habe been put to ferment in big plastic containers (after having been crushed if possible)


Actually, since 2003, the law changed a bit. Realizing that alcoholism in France had little to do with hard liquor consumption and that restrictive laws were endangering a rich tradition, the french state somehow reversed the trend. Since a 2003 law presented by a UMP Assembly Deputy, the tax per liter due to the Customs has been halved. The new law also states that from 2008, everyone in France owning an orchard will have the right to have his fruits distillated in a 10 liters (at 50°) limit. The new proposition debated in the parliament explained at length that this would be in the interest of the regional identity and would not result in additional alcoholism.
Back to the alambic : As we watched the spirit flowing into the bucket, the guy offered us to taste. It wasn't hot, only lightly lukewarm maybe. Very strong indeed, and pure, with definitely a distinct plum aroma behind the alcohol. The client looked on with love as his Eau de Vie was poured into his demi-johns...
Here is a web page telling humorously (in french) how to prepare the plum fruits to make the best "goutte" .

Thank you for this and all your other reports which I find marvellous and bring me back to France where I lived for 20 years before moving to England. I am glad to read that the traditional bouilleur de cru will not disappear and that we will not be forever deprived of those marvellous 'gouttes' which are part of French life, particularly in the country. A marvellous elixir of mirabelle comes to mind...!
Posted by: William Patton | January 17, 2007 at 09:21 PM
Thanks for this post. I live in the heart of moonshine country in the US. I'm also struck at how a process practiced for centuries by farmers is now deemed "illegal" because the government wants to tax it. We have a growing number of small distilleries here in the states, and a growing interest among hobbyist who want to try their hand at distilling. It's legal in New Zealand. How is the rest of the world different?
Posted by: John Barleycorn | January 18, 2007 at 11:13 AM
Bertrand, yet another great posting!!! I wish we had some of those in
upstate new york where I am from, we have lots of tree fruits and apples.
Posted by: jason c | January 18, 2007 at 02:51 PM
Monsieur,
Terrific website, very happy that I found it. If only we here in America could have such traditions. Our country is perhaps to new...? But hopefully, we might be able to find a way to legalise such small batch distillation in the future, keep on with such a terrific lifes work!
Salut!
Harry Burkhart, Phoenixville, PA USA
Posted by: Harry burkhart | February 11, 2007 at 08:45 PM
Thank you very much for the beautiful images of making liquar.
i am very intrested in the morden mobile machine for making liquar from sugar cane and cone realy. it would be even better if you know any where were i could purchase one for my self. i know this can work well in Africa especially in Uganda my Country.
Thank you once again.
Edward.
Posted by: Edward Kennedy Owinyojiri | July 12, 2008 at 05:36 PM