Pont des Arches (bridge), Liège (Belgium)Could Bacchus have been a Belgian ? The vignerons all over France often speak with respect of the belgian market : this tiny country may have the highest rate of wine connoisseurs in the world, and exporting there is a rewarding recognition for a producer. With only 10 million people, Belgium is the 5th importer of still wines, and the 4th for Champagnes, and it does not take into account the wine and bubbles bought directly in the wineries. Just a few observations to go with this low relief sculpture...
Anne de LaguicheMark Williamson, of Willis' Wine Bar, held recently an interesting Jura tasting event at his restaurant the Maceo next door to the bar, with 17 guest estates. Anne de Laguiche, of
Chateau D'Arlay, presented among her other wines this surprising cuvée Corail 2002: Like it used to be in Jura in the past when complantation was common (the practice of planting
many different grape varieties in the same rows), this wine was made with all the Jura varieties: Trousseau, Poulsard, Savagnin, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes were macerated together 5-6 days. Pink color, but more tannic than a rosé, and with the freshness of a white wine. Very nice nose. With the acidity of Savagnin, it can age 12 to 15 years. Beautiful.
Chateau d'Arlay wines seem good value : This Cuvée corail costs 8,5 Euro at the estate.
Julien LabetAnother find at Mark Williamson's Jura tasting : Cuvée du Hasard 2000 of Domaine Labet, a Chardonnay vinified like a Vin Jaune, meaning the wine is being let to ferment in a cask without any topping-up for years, so that a veil of yeasts develops at the surface. There were 2 casks of it, bottled in september 2006 after 5 1/2 years of elevage. Very surprising wine : Powerful, with the richness of the Chardonnay, yet avoiding the nut aromas found in the Vin Jaune. A rarity. 20 Euro.
We'll Always Have Champagne...Humorist
Art Buchwald passed away last january. An ex-Marine, he used the GI Bill to go to Paris where his chutzpah landed him a job at the New York Herald Tribune in Paris in the late 1940s'. Asked by the editor what he knew about the Paris high life, wine and restaurants, he answered : "I was the wine taster in the Marine Corps." Here are a few samples of his unmistakable self-depreciating humor.
"When ordering wines in restaurants, study the card for a long time even if you don't understand what you're reading. Cluck occasionally, and then turn to the sommelier and ask him to advise you on what to order. Never accept his first suggestion. He is testing you, and you don't want to lose face."
"It may be useful when talking about wine to know that Bordeaux comes in slim bottles and Burgundy in squat ones. This always impresses."
"Always carry a vintage chart with you. If you're not sure of the best wine years, take the wine card to the washroom and check it against your vintage chart."
"Drinking wine in some one else's home is a much easier problem The host is always looking for compliments and if you're not careful, some of the sillier people at the table may start giving them."

This is an old story now but this final presidential debate (Sarkozy vs Royal) before the second run of the presidential elections had more people watch TV than for Soccer World Finals . Different style of personalities and ideas produced a shaky exchange that made B. and I feel like watching the Roman games, and sipping our wine all the while (we happened to drink different colors...) added to this Roman-esque touch.
Felix Kir's birth home in Alise-Sainte-ReineLike everyone else in France I occasionally drink a
Kir. While I still suspect that the Creme de Cassis was added to the Bourgogne Aligoté to hide an excessive acidity, I now find some charms to this old french tradition. What I didn't know until recently is that it's not that old and was "invented" after WW2 by
a priest named Felix Kir (1876-1968), born in Alise-Sainte-Reine in Burgundy (Alise Sainte Reine, 20 rue de L'Hopital). He was also a French Resistance hero and was elected mayor of Dijon from 1946 to 1967.
Joel Peterson, on ArteArte, the French-German TV channel, aired recently a video report about the wine issues that enflame many debates today : globalization, standardization and vinification techniques. For those of you who are familiar with Arte's view of the world, it was no surprise that the film suffered of the same shortcomings found in Nossiter's Mondovino, with a clear penchant for caricature. Of course, Wiltrud Kremer's "La Bataille du Vin" began with interviews at Mondavi, the useful devil, particularly of Genevieve Janssens, winemaking director of the group. Later, there was an interview of Scott Burr of
Conetech, who spoke openly about his alcohol adjustment and flavor management in wines, and of stetson-wearing Joel Peterson who made his 4000 Dollars investment turn into a 148 million Dollars wine venture. On the other hand, the first interview in France was of course of a family vigneron in Burgundy at odds with such practices. As Americans tend to speak more freely of the techniques they use while Europeans never openly admit it on record, this sort of film paints again a false picture, making gullible viewers believe in a black-and-white struggle between New-World=manipulations versus Old-World=authenticity. I wish it was that simple...
Loïc RoureKudos to Loïc Roure, of Domaine du Possible in the Roussillon region, for his Table-Wine cuvée "Pas la Mer à Boire", meaning "no big deal". This Grenache-Carignan-Syrah 2005 was bottled last january and has deep, ripe-cherry aromas, beautiful tannins and a long-lasting mouth. This was at the Languedoc tasting day at Caves Augé last april 28th. 12,2 Euro.
Alain AllierThis very same Caves Augé tasting was for me an occasion to chat with Alain Allier of Domaine Mouressipe. The wine he offered to taste that day was a Table wine red, "Cuvée Cacous" 2005, gourmand and light with acacia-flower aromas. Nice wine. I learned that he vinifies himself 3 hectare of his 10-hectare total surface, the rest going to the cooperative. They must have a very "progressive" coop over there because most have rules that require members/growers to give 100% of their grapes. 7,7 Euro.
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