The Ambassador's wines

Ambassador David Bruce being knighted in Burgundy (1951 - source USIS)A couple years ago, I wrote a story (Wine Oblivion) about the post-war period which saw the cold war unfold, the then-disastrous economic situation of Burgundy and the nascent use of synthesis chemicals in the vineyards. To illustrate my prose, I used (among others) several pictures of U.S. Ambassador to France David Bruce being knighted by the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin in Burgundy. I had found these documents by chance a few months earlier and had made some research about this post-war period for the story (I had never heard of David Bruce at school). I was contacted several months ago by the historian Kenneth Weisbrode who was writing The Atlantic Century, a book about the American diplomats who forged the Alliance with Europe. He was looking for pictures of Ambassador David Bruce and his Google search led him to Wineterroirs. These pictures were original prints with the USIS stamp on the back. The USIS was the overseas branch of the USIA, a now-defunct U.S. information agency (I noted in my post that Julia Child's husband Paul was on his way to work for the USIS when they both arrived in Paris in 1948). But most important, these black & white shots were the best pictures of David Bruce that the historian had ever seen and he wanted to use one of them for his soon-to-be-published book. No need to say, I was almost as proud as if I had taken the pictures myself and we made a deal. Somewhere in our email exchanges, Ken told me that he remembered spotting a personnal wine list which proved a keen interest by the Ambassador for wines and particularly French wines.

This post is centered on the incredible wine cellar inventory that appears in an exchange of letters between Ambassador David Bruce and his friend William Burden who had just been named Ambassador in Belgium. David Bruce was on his way back to the U.S. and although it's not entirely clear, this outstanding wine list (You'd be quite rich if you had just one tenth of these wines today...) sent to William Burden is possibly the former Ambassador's private cellar that he considered selling whole or part to Burden. In a letter dated on september 4 1959, David Bruce speaks of this list as being the inventory of his wine cellar totaling 2007 bottles.
The wine cellar inventory is dated from 5/31/1956 and the sum-up found in the letters, which are dated in 1959 and where David Bruce speaks of 2006 or 2007 bottles, may be concerning an additionnal batch/delivery on its way to the U.S.

I asked historian Ken Weisbrode to write a few words of introduction. Here they are :

David Bruce listening to the knighting speech (source USIS).............The Singular David K.E. Bruce

Many notable American envoys have served in Paris, including Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson, and, more recently, Pamela Harriman and Felix Rohatyn. Among their many pleasures there was French viticulture. President Eisenhower’s ambassador to France, C. Douglas Dillon, for example, was known as L’Ambassadeur-vigneron, and spent much of his time tending to the château and vineyards he owned at Haut-Brion.

Perhaps no American diplomat was more revered in France than David Bruce, who presided there, first over the Marshall Plan, then as ambassador in his own right, until 1952. Along with his striking wife Evangeline, Bruce ran what was probably the most durable and intimate of transatlantic salons. The only American ever to serve as ambassador to France, Germany, the United Kingdom, as well as to NATO and to Jean Monnet’s High Authority, the forerunner of the European Commission, Bruce’s real love was France, especially French food and wine. According to legend, Bruce and Ernest Hemingway were first to liberate the bar at the Ritz in 1944. One of his early nicknames was “Bordeaux Bruce,” according to his biographer, Nelson Lankford, who added, “He knew vintages like an idiot savant knows the multiplication tables and traded on that lore to good effect during his French appointments.” Bruce’s own account of taste borders on the poetic:

You have asked me to select my favorite dish... This is… a crafty question. So much depends on one’s mood, one’s companions, one’s physical condition…. I can recollect very well at one time living for ten days on tins of Portuguese sardines, with a ration of one can each day. Nothing since, in retrospect, has ever seemed as delicious…. On another occasion I subsisted for a week on a diet of highly-spiced, dry, cold sausages, thoroughly impregnated with garlic and accompanied by a rough Spanish wine carried in puncheons which flapped along the flanks of a sweating mule….

Yet there was also

Virginia ham… diamond-back terrapin… a wood duck, fed on acorns… creamed kidneys, resting on golden waffles… stewed chicken livers, with rich brown sauce and hot buttered rolls… Shrimps Norfolk, and the innumerable ways of preparing crabs, [which] open up vistas that perhaps are best, for the moment at least, forgotten.

And, finally,

As a wise man once said of strawberries, ‘Doubtless God could have invented something better but very decidedly he never did.’

Bruce reportedly set the all time record for space with his Washington, D.C. storage company. Much of it was filled with wine that Bruce sent regularly from Europe. At some point in the late-1950s—it is not clear exactly why or when—Bruce sold much of his inventory to his friend, William Burden [picture on left - Click to enlarge], who had just been named ambassador to Belgium. Burden was a fellow enthusiast, not just of wine but also of racecars, airplanes and rockets, as well as art.

David Bruce's knighting ceremony with the vinestock (source USIS)He was only man to serve as Special Assistant for Research and Development of the US Air Force and president of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Burden’s own tastes ran similar to Bruce’s. He recalled the life and times of a Belgian friend, René Boel:

René has preserved a splendid wine cellar despite the German occupation. He told me that the instant he heard of their break-through he had all the bottles of his old wine buried beneath the many flower beds surrounding the château with the flowers in bloom carefully restored. As in all the great houses he bought his red Bordeaux and Burgundy in huge tuns, each holding the equivalent of 228 bottles. The year was stenciled on the tun and the wine remained in the wood for twelve to fifteen years before it was bottled and served. This aging was ideal for the red burgundy but fatal for the white which turned brownish (“Maderisé”) and lost its fine taste. I objected that this was nonsense, and proved it at my dinners by serving white burgundies that were in their prime of five and six years which is the French standard. I also served young Rhine, Saar and Moselle wines which I suppose they resisted in principle because they came from their traditional enemy, Germany. But they became converted very rapidly.
There is another custom that struck me as odd: the red wines are served in filled glasses on a tray, not poured from the bottle individually as we do. But whatever the differences the Belgians love wine and in Brussels are a number of small clubs which exist for the pleasure of good talk and good dinners. I was happy to become a member of the ‘Club des 33’ and shortly before our departure I gave a ‘diner de dégustation’ for my gourmet friends and members of the club, of seven courses and twenty wines. The president of ‘33’ raised his class with this toast: ‘I cannot believe that anyone not a Belgian could have offered such a superb dinner with such superlative wines. My congratulations to Ambassador Burden.’

Menu and winesDavid Bruce’s papers at the Virginia Historical Society contain the contents of Burden’s cellar at Mt. Kisco, New York. It is not clear from the correspondence whether the holdings belong to Bruce, Burden or both; nevertheless it provides a glimpse of a first-rate collection, probably unparalleled then, or since.

[See the wine list excerpts below or the Pdf download at the bottom of the page]

Much has been made of the so-called greatest generation of Americans who endured the Great Depression and led the Allies to victory in World War II, followed by the Cold War. Comparably less is known of the previous generation—which grew to maturity during the Roaring ‘20s and disappeared quietly from the scene during the cynical Vietnam years. This was Bruce’s generation. He served in both World War I and II and endured his share of hardship, including the loss of two daughters. Yet it was his gentle, elegant nature and his tremendous joie de vivre that survive most prominently in the memories and accounts of those who knew him.

The generational tale Bruce’s story gives is one that recalls the glorious interwar years (at least the 1920s) when European and American society seemed to have reached the pinnacle of bliss and contentment, not to mention power. These years marked a similar high point in the global penetration of Euro-Atlantic culture, for despite the setbacks of the First World War, the 1920s and twentieth century modernity, spread to nearly every corner of the world. Europe and the American money that bankrolled its recovery had never been so fashionable.

This was the influence that Bruce and his ilk replicated in the mid-twentieth century. It was a second, albeit brief, golden age, centered again in Western Europe, particularly France. It would not have been complete without a visible passion for the things that many Europeans value most. In making the most of such passions, Bruce did much for diplomacy and for the transatlantic harmony that today may seem like little more than the vestige of the distant past.

Kenneth Weisbrode is a diplomatic historian at the European University Institute and the author of The Atlantic Century (Da Capo, 2009).

.............

Inventory (extract, the French wines and a few "domestic" - figures on the right are quantities)) :

Red Bordeaux:

Chateau Ausone 1952..................................36
Chateau Beychevelle 1952............................35
Chateau Grand Puy-Lacoste 1952.................12
Chateau Lafite-Rotschild 1952 (Rehoboarms)...............1
Chateau Latour 1952 (Rehobohams)............3
Chateau Petrus 1952.......................................96
Chateau Cheval Blanc 1949............................59
Chateau Ausone 1947...................................36
Chateau Ausone 1947 (magnums)...............6
Chateau Cheval Blanc 1947..............................85
Chateau Cheval Blanc 1947 (magnums)...............6
Chateau Haut Brion 1947....................................48
Chateau Lafite-Rotschild 1947...............................77
Chateau Lafite-Rotschild 1947 (Imperials).................12
Chateau Latour 1947............................................58
Chateau Latour 1947 (magnums).........................16
Chateau Latour 1947 (Marie Jeannes)..................6
Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases 1947.........................36
Chateau Leoville-Poyferre 1947 (Magnums).................23
Chateau Margaux 1947......................................................83
Chateau Margaux 1947 (Magnums)..............................12
Chateau Mouton-Rotschild 1947..................................125
Chateau Mouton-Rotschild 1947 (Magnums)...................18
Chateau Ausone 1945......................................................48
Chateau Cheval Blanc 1945...................................116
Chateau Cos D'Estournel 1945................................80
Chateau Gruaud-Larose 1945 (Magnums)...................6
Chateau Haut Brion 1945.........................................36
Chateau Lafite-Rotschild 1945...................................95
chateau Lafite-Rotschild 1945 (Magnums)..................6
Chateau Latour 1945.............................................93
Chateau Latour 1945 (Magnums)................................6
Chateau Mouton-Rotschild 1945.....................................93
Chateau Mouton-Rotschild 1945 (Magnums)...............11
Chateau Mouton-Rotschild 1945 (Marie Jeannes)...............3
Chateau Cheval Blanc 1937..............................35
Chateau Mouton-Rotschild 1937....................................35
Chateau Gruaud-Larose 1934................12
Chateau Haut Brion 1934.....................37
Chateau Latour 1934..............................30
Chateau Leoville-Poyferre 1934..........8
Chateau Haut Brion 1929.....................9
Chateau Lascombes 1929.................12
Chateau Margaux 1929....................12
Chateau Latour 1928...........................12
Chateau Leoville-Poyferre 1928............2
Chateau Latour 1920..........................17
Chateau Haut Brion 1905.....................83
Chateau Latour 1905............................34
Chateau Margaux 1905........................28

White Bordeaux :

Chateau Haut Brion Blanc 1953......................12
Chateau Yquem 1949......................................12
Chateau Carbonnieux 1947 Graves......................9
Chateau Haut Brion Blanc 1947.........................74
Chateau Yquem 1947.....................................12
Chateau Carbonnieux 1937.............................12
Chateau Latour Blanche 1934.......................3

Red Burgundy :

Bonnes Mares 1953 Roumier......................................................36
Chambertin 1953 Drouhin...........................................................36
Chambertin 1953 Drouhin (Magnums)...........................................18
Clos Vougeot 1953 Moillard.............................................................24
Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1953 (Magnums)........................................11
la Tâche 1953 Domaine de la Romanée Conti......................................71
La Tâche 1953 Domaine de la Romanée Conti 1953 (Magnums)...........12
Richebourg 1953 Domaine de la Romanée Conti........................37
Romanée Conti 1952......................................................................12
Chambertin 1959 Alexis Lichine Camus..................................83
Chambertin 1949 Alexis Lichine Camus (Magnums)..............24
Musigny - Clos Vougeot 1949 Alexis lichine..............................60
Richebourg 1949 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (Magnums)............28
Romanée St. Vivant 1949...............................................................108
Bonnes Mares 1947 Domaine des Musigny.................................12
chambertin 1947 Clos de Bèze - Jos. Drouhin (Magnums)..............13
Chambertin 1947 Drouhin.................................................................71
La Tâche 1947 Romanée Conti.......................................................96
Volnay Clos de Chevret 1947 Marquis d'Angerville......................24
Chambertin 1945 J. H. Remy..............................................................58
Chambertin Clos de Bèze 1945 (Magnums)...........................................5
La Tâche 1945 Domaine de la Romanée Conti....................................96
Musigny VVRN 1945 Domaine des Musigny (Magnums).....................18
Richebourg 1945 Bellow Import...........................................................48
Romanée Conti 1945 Domaine de la Romanée Conti......................48
Echezeaux 1943 Berrys Import.................................................12 [The whole line is crossed here]
Richebourg 1937 Romanée Conti..................................................6
Romanée Conti 1937 Domaine de la Romanée Conti.....................24
Grand Echezeaux 1934 Berrys Import................................................24
La Tâche 1934 Domaine de lma Romanée Conti Berry Bros London.......47
Romanée Conti 1934 Domaine de la Romanée Conti........................12
Romanée Conti 1929 Domaine de la Romanée Conti.......................12

Domestic :

Vintners American Burgundy Red.........................4

White Burgundy [note the "Estate Bottled" indication here and there, estate bottlings were not so common then] :

Corton Charlemagne 1953 Bouchard.....................................60
Corton Charlemagne 1953 Latour.......................................24
Meursault Clos des Perrières 1953 Albert Grivault...................84
Meursault Cuvée Goureau 1953 Hospices de Beaune..................60
Montrachet 1953 La Guiche...............................................44
Montrachet 1953 La Guiche (Magnums).............................12
Pouilly-Fuissé 1953 Latour................................................36
Corton Charlemagne 1952 Louis Latour....................................24
Chablis les Preuses 1952 Estate Bottled, M. Servin...................24
Chassagne Montrachet 1952 Clos dezs Ruchottes; Estate Bottled, Ramont...............48
Montrachet 1952 La Guiche........................................................39
Pouilly-Fuissé 1952 Estate Bottled, M. Latout.................36
Puligny Montrachet 1952 J. Monnot Les Pucelles...................11
Corton Charlemagne 1950 Louis Latour..........................72
Meursault Clos des Perrières 1950 Estate Bottled, Grivault (Magnums).............12
Montrachet 1950 Estate Bottled, La Guiche......................12
Mouilly-Fuissé 1950 Estate Bottled, Burrier...................72
Poulli-Fuissé 1950 Francis Auvigne...........................55
Chablis Vaudésir 1949 Michel....................................24
Corton Charlemagne 1949 Estate Bottled, L. Latour..............42
Montrachet 1949 Estate Bottled, La Guiche....................77
Corton Charlemagne 1947 Estate Bottled, L. Latour..........72
Hospices de Beaune Blanc 1947 Humblot....................12
Montrachet 1947 Comte de Moucheron (Magnums)..............6
Montrachet 1947 La Guiche................................................60
Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1947 Estate Bottled, Comte de Vogue....................60
Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1947 Comte de Vogue (Magnums)..............12
Petit Chablis 1947 Duvergey.....................................11
Puligny Montrachet 1947 Joseph Matrot........................42
Montrachet 1945 La Guiche................................................12
Musigny Vieilles Vignes 1945 Estate Bottled Comte de Vogue........60
Montrachet 1943 Baron Thenard........................................75
Pouilly-Fuissé 1943 Le Clos V. Bulland..............................6
Pouilly-Fuissé 1942 Le Clos V. Bulland............................6
Chablis 1929 Berry Bros..................................................2

Domestic :

Vintners Chablis N. Y. State..........................................5
Wente Bros Pinot Blanc 1941..................................................6

Loire Wine :

Chateau de Sancerre 1949 Marnier Lapostolle.................................64

Rhone Wine :

Hermitage Rouge, Sizeranne 1937 Chapoutier.........................48

Rosé Wine :

Chateau de Selle Rosé 1953.......................................................12
Chateau de Selle Rosé 1947..............................................................71
Cabernet Rosé Champigny Saumur - Clos Cristal...................12

Champagne :

Ayala Champagne 1950.................................................12 [the whole line is crossed]
Mailly Champagne 1950..........................................................16
Clos des Goisses Champagne 1949 (Magnums)...............1
Cramant Blanc de Blancs 1949..........................................12
Goisses 1949......................................................................31
Bollinger Champagne 1947.........................................48
Bollinger Champagne 1947 (Magnums)..............................30
Bollinger 1947 (Pints)..........................................................24
Bollinger 1947 (Rehoboams).............................................15
Charles Heidsieck Rosé 1947 (Magnums)......................6
Clos des Goisses 1947 Champagne........................15
Dom Pérignon 1947.....................................................24
Krug 1947.....................................................................36
Perrier Jouet 1947....................................................12
Pommery & Greno Rosé 1947...............................48
Louis Roederer Rosé 1945......................................6
Bollinger Champagne 1943....................................67
Goisses 1943.........................................................13
Veuve Clicquot 1934 (Pints).............................20
Veuve Clicquot 1928............................................75
Bollinger...............................................................1
Bollinger (Magnums)........................................................1
Korbel Brut Champagne..........................................11
Moet & Chandon Vatican Cuvée................................11

Domestic :

Vintners N. Y. State Brut..................................9

Following are wines from the Moselle, Rhine, Palatinate, fortified wines, apéritif wines and a beautiful choice of Whiskeys, Bourbon, Irish Whiskeys, Rye and Scotch, plus Rum, Brandy and other Liqueurs....
Link to the wine list (Pdf download), courtesy of the Virginia Historical Society.

Thank you again to Ken Weisbrode for his contribution and his research for this story

Ambassador David Bruce taking the oath - his wife Evangeline at his side (USIS)

Comments

[Jack Everitt]

That is some collection. Spectacular German wines!