The unknown side of modern winemaking

Things you never read about on back labels Welcome to the Wonderland of wine biotech products and easy winemaking recipes :
This story, for a change, has not been written by me, but by the very makers and distributors of the countless additives that have changed the way wine is being made since the 1980s’ . Read through the own words of the wine-additives businesses what these miracle powders and liquids can do on otherwise-mediocre juices and wines [the latter being my guess : otherwise, they woulldn't need these products in the first place]. These excerpts vaunting the various enhancements in the aromas, mouth-feel, structure, middle-palate and finish cannot be found of course on the websites of the wineries using these correcting tricks (even less on the back labels of their wines) as these wineries probably display on their webpage the usual fairy tale about terroir, family winery and small-batch cuvees etc to their customers. These excerpted sentences below were found on various additives companies’ webpages which were intended for wineries and winemakers solely (of course). I just replaced each time the name of the given additives with XXX , and each of these individual sentences describe the enhancing properties of a different product (the packaging of which being probably pictured on my fancy photomontage). Just think that this is just a randomly-picked glimpse among the dozens of specialty additives available out there on the market…
These products are of course used in the old world as well as in the new world. And if you think the expression recipe winemaking is exaggerated, just read this [in their own words] Recipe suggestion for Reserve Pinot Noir by Chr Hansen, one of the major players in the wine-additives business. If you're into whites, try rather the Recipe suggestion for barrel-aged Chardonnay.
The collage photography on this page gives you a visual glimpse on these packs, containers and bags that you're never given the chance to see although they're behind almost every conventional wine nowadays...
Read and enjoy, and open a bottle of real wine so that you don't stay on sour aromas...

All these various enhancing properties of diverse winemaking additives have been found on currently-online documents and webpages managed by distributors and manufacturers :

Enhances Sauvignon varietal character. …………………………………………….. This strain increases Sauvignon wines mouthfeel , therefore actively contributing to an ideal wine balance …………………………………………….. This highly alcohol resistant strain allows to obtain structured wines with well defined aroma of blackcurrant, dark chocolate, fresh tobacco... …………………………………………….. Wines made with XXX were noted for fruit and varietal characters that were both elegant and complex. …………………………………………….. XXX removes the color and improves the organoleptic characters. After treatment, musts or “vins de taille” are free of the herbaceous characters generated by harsh grape processing and are blending products of quality. …………………………………………….. XXX produces wines with mouth feel whilst developing the most typical flavors of the variety: citrus flavors (lemon and grapefruit) as well as tropical fruit flavors. …………………………………………….. XXX has sensory descriptors that include fruit jam, rose and cherry liqueurs, sweet spice, licorice, cedar and earthy elements. …………………………………………….. This strain produces light to medium bodied, wellbalanced Pinot with a rich garnet red color. Wines produced with XXX have a subtle nose with red fruit notes (red and morello cherries, raspberry and blackcurrant).
_Expresses the typicity of Pinot noir
_Provides mouthfeel and volume
_Improves the extraction of phenolic compounds and color intensity …………………………………………….. Enhances spicy (clove, nutmeg) and fruit flavors and aromas while adding overall complexity. …………………………………………….. XXX leads to the production of well rounded wines with superior mouthfeel and highly complex nose. The wines obtained are elegant, harmonious and have a supple tannin structure. In Syrah from cooler climates, the strain leads to concentrated fresh blackberry, raspberry and lavender notes. The wines present a persistent finish of spicy pepper, liquorice and tobacco. …………………………………………….. …helps maintain color, red fruit and cherry characteristics. …………………………………………….. XXX yeast has been selected for producing of aromatic white wines in various winemaking conditions. XXX especially develops the fruity character of a number of white grape varieties: Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Chenin blanc, Semillon, Riesling, Grenache Blanc, Terret, Aligoté and Ugni Blanc. …………………………………………….. XXX contributes an overall well-balanced mouthfeel with floral and fruity aromas…allows for the release of bound terpenes in aromatic varieties due to the beta-glucosidase activity. This enhances classic varietal characteristics. …………………………………………….. For fermentations, XXX is particularly useful when natural grape tannin levels are deficient. Post-fermentation it can be used to stabilize color, enhance structure and provide anti-oxidant protection. Used prior to barreling it can improve integration of tannins in wines. It is recommended that XXX additions be made well in advance of bottling (six weeks at least) to assure complete polymerization. To Use: Sprinkle XXX evenly on the must at the crusher or into the wine during a transfer or racking. Further additions can be made during the next 2-3 rackings followed by organoleptic evaluation. Final additions can be made up to 3 weeks before bottling though 6 weeks are recommended to ensure complete polymerization, settling and optimal filtration.

The kitchen behind the curtain

XXX I is a strong aroma producer with fast fermentation kinetics…enhances esters (fruity, floral) and volatile thiols (boxwood, passion fruit, grapefruit and guava aromas). …………………………………………….. XXX is used for the prevention and curing of pinking and to decolorize white musts which are obtained from red grapes. Its formulation lacking in allergenic compounds exempts it from the obligation of labelling of wines according to Dir. 2007/68/CE …………………………………………….. Wines fermented with XXX are described as having more intensity and a balance of mineral, citrus and spicy notes. …………………………………………….. Enhances mouthfeel through the elevated production of glycerol. …………………………………………….. In red wines, XXX develops ripe fruit, jam and cedar aromas together with mild spiciness. On the palate it contributes high fore-mouth volume, big mid-palate mouthfeel and intense fruit concentration. When used for white wines (particularly Chardonnay), sensory descriptors include butterscotch, hazelnut and almond aromas. …………………………………………….. XXX will contribute wood nuance without smoky or toasty characters and is especially useful when old barrels are used during aging. This finishing tannin is a strong anti-oxidant. It will help preserve color and can increase the complexity of the wine’s finish. …………………………………………….. XXX can help compensate for lack of tannins in finished wine without the “dryness” associated with barrels. It enhances mid-palate and complexity while providing a measure of anti-oxidant protection. Fruit characters can be enhanced. Tannin Estate is especially recommended when using older, tannin depleted barrels. …………………………………………….. Notable for its ability to increase the aromatic complexity of neutral white varieties and for its tolerance of high sugar levels. …………………………………………….. Known for its ability to generate ripe berry, bright fruit and spicy characteristics and to consistently produce Pinot Noir with good tannin structure. …………………………………………….. XXX is ideally suited to the production red wines for aging. It strengthens the structure, body and aromatic finesse of major red grape varieties (Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel). Encourages optimal polyphenol extraction: anthocyanins and tannins for the production of wines with sound structure. Develops red fruity aromas (blackcurrant, prunes, and Morello cherries), and spicy notes (even empyreumatics). …………………………………………….. XXX is an aromatic red wine yeast that promotes black currant, blackberry and plum-like flavors. …………………………………………….. XXX is recommended for the production of fruity, well-balanced red wines …………………………………………….. Contributes to the taste balance of wine – desirable astringency, softness and mellowness without the introduction of green, bitter, harsh, woody characteristics. …………………………………………….. Increases the sensation of sweetness. …………………………………………….. Imparts vanilla, grilled and toasty characters. …………………………………………….. Provides roundness. …………………………………………….. Reinforces wine structure. …………………………………………….. XXX slowly diffuses over time similar characteristics of our XXX staves to enhance integrated oaky notes in wine. …………………………………………….. XXX 's positive enhanced mouthfeel contribution stood out in comparison with other ML bacteria strains during tasting.

Mainstream wineries' best-kept secret

It gives winemakers the opportunity to boost fruit flavours, optimising the conversion of soluble grape-derived fruit flavour precursors into volatile flavours, increasing the wines aroma intensity, spectrum and longevity. …………………………………………….. Treatment with XXX offers the following advantages:
_A noticeable reduction in the optical density of the wine: wines are less yellow,
_A reduction in catechins and leukoanthocyans, responsible for browning a combination of free SO2.
_For the senses, a reduction of bitterness and improved freshness and aroma. The specificity of the action of XXX is a complement to that obtained by treating with YYY and with ZZZ.
The dosage for use varies from several grams depending on the sought after gustatory effect, to be pre-determined by taste tests. …………………………………………….. …ensure a safe and reliable alcoholic fermentation in both red and white wines, while giving increased flavor impact. The above non-Saccharomyces strains have been especially selected for their enhancement of complexity and mouthfeel in wine… produce wines that have been noted to have a more complex character. …………………………………………….. Sensory notes include increased minerality in whites such as Chardonnay and spice characters in reds like Pinot Noir. …………………………………………….. Produces high levels of polysaccharides which contribute intense mouthfeel and volume. Complex aromatic notes and elevated ester production such as tropical (pineapple) and fresh fruit (apple, pear, strawberry) make this strain an ideal choice for rosé wines and Rhône whites.. …………………………………………….. Used in concentrated reds for a rich, lush, balanced mouthfeel. Characterized by red fruit and mineral notes. …………………………………………….. XXXX gives a softer palate, rounder mouth-feel, increases wine aromas spectrum and longevity. This non-Saccharomyces strain has been especially selected for its enhancement of complexity and mouth-feel in wine. …………………………………………….. Selected for fermenting red wines with stable color, intense fore-mouth volume, mid-palate tannin structure and fresh aftertaste. …………………………………………….. Provides an increase of sweetness sensations with a concurrent decrease in tannin aggressiveness …………………………………………….. It can be distinguished by its expression of citrus and blossom notes and for accentuating volume in the mouth. …………………………………………….. The result is an increase in volume and mouth feel contributing to a fuller more rounded wine. …………………………………………….. The sequential actions of these activities cleave aroma precursors and enhance the varietal character in aromatic wines. …………………………………………….. Additionally, white wines treated with XXX benefit from increased aromatic complexity, more balanced mouth feel and a longer shelf life. …………………………………………….. XXX has been formulated to act in a gentle way so it will not lead to an over expression of aromas. …………………………………………….. Low maturity and/or short maceration red grapes to increase color stability while building mouth feel structure and covering “green” character perception …………………………………………….. The resulting wines have more red fruit aromas and have more volume in the mouth. …………………………………………….. XXX was selected for its ability to enhance aromatic complexity, structure and mouthfeel. …………………………………………….. This is achieved because XXX and YYY are scientifically formulated combinations of wine yeast strains that enhance the intensity and complexity of flavors and aromas typical of fresh and fruity, modern and New World wine styles. …………………………………………….. Wines fermented with XXX have shown intense aromatic profiles of berries, spice and licorice. It has been known to reduce vegetal aromas. XXX adds complexity with a balanced, round mouthfeel and promotes malolactic fermentation. …………………………………………….. On the palate it creates high fore-mouth volume, big mid-palate mouthfeel, an intense, fine-grain tannin sensation and a long lasting licorice finish…selected for its ability to bring out differentiated varietal aromas by reinforcing the rich concentrated flavors found in varieties such as Zinfandel and Syrah. …………………………………………….. XXX has been noted for having positive impacts on mouth-feel and structure because of its ability to release mannoproteins in significant quantities …………………………………………….. More powders and liquids used for winemaking

Main uses for XXX :
Correct and stabilize color in wine, particularly white and blush wines
Help prevent “browning” and “pinking”
Freshen slightly oxidized wines
Reduce astringency and bitterness in red and white wines
Unmask fruity character
Improve mouth-feel and finish of wine
Treat press juice prior to fermentation to reduce astringency and bitterness …………………………………………….. Just add the product directly from the bag to the must or wine. Available as a freeze dried product in small, medium and large pack sizes (as indicated) to treat 66 gallons, 660 gallons and 6,600 gallons respectively. …………………………………………….. XXX is a very good thiol releaser (guava, passion fruit and grapefruit) and outstanding ester producer. On tank-fermented Chardonnay it promotes pineapple and banana flavors, while on Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Viognier it accentuates floral notes. …………………………………………….. High glycerol producer and offers good mouthfeel and stable color extraction. Typical aromas include violets, raspberries, cassis, strawberries and black pepper. …………………………………………….. In white wines, XXX helps retain bright fruit characters while optimizing mouthfeel and balance. It also performs well with both Pinot Noir and cooler climate Syrah. …………………………………………….. This Rioja region selection helps create exceptional flavor complexity while softening tannins and improving mid-palate mouthfeel. Enhances varietal characteristics, ester production and has good compatibility with malolactic fermentation. Its flavor attributes are often described as ripe fruit, jam, hazelnut and dried plums. …………………………………………….. In fruit-focused whites, such as Chenin Blanc, Riesling and Rhône whites, XXX fermentations result in stable, fresh fruit characteristics such as melon and apricot while improving fore-mouth impact. …………………………………………….. Characterized by aromas of strawberry jam, caramel and spice. Enhances color intensity and tannin structure. …………………………………………….. XXX is a liquid ingredient which can be directly added into the wine before bottling, thus maximizing efficiency and minimizing process change. …………………………………………….. XXX is recommended for red wines with a firm tannic structure and enhances black currant, berry and spice flavors. …………………………………………….. XXX [-treated] wines are perceived as having higher fore-mouth volume and mid-palate tannic intensity, smoothness as well as fresher aromatic sensations. …………………………………………….. for enhancing licorice aromas and mid-palate intensity …………………………………………….. XXX smooths and stabilizes the wine's colloidal balance, resulting in increased perception of ripe fruit, more intense smooth structure, initial volume and smooth finish, decreased perception of "sawdust/sap" in wines aged in new barrels, decreased perception of harsh, chemical and burning sensations. …………………………………………….. For high-end white or rosé wines from ripe grapes, XXX helps to develop intense and balanced aromas mid-palate, making it a good sensory complement for wines fermented with YYY and ZZZ. XXX may also be added towards the end of fermentation to add smooth mid-palate intensity and decrease perception of woody aromas such as sap/sawdust of wines aging in new barrels. …………………………………………….. …carefully selected and put through a revolutionary process developed by XXX, these tannins solubilize instantly and completely in wine and give winemakers full control to balance tannins for optimal structure, mouth-feel, color stabilization, flavor, and aromas. …………………………………………….. …helps to stabilize color and improve tannin structure. …………………………………………….. …achieves optimal phenolic balance, increase midpalate character, reduce vegetative flavors and aromas, and reduce "hot" alcohol character, among other benefits. …………………………………………….. XXX brings a complete and well balanced gustative perception which helps to adjust tannic structure of the wine for the end of aging. …………………………………………….. The dose has to be adapted in accordance with the variety, and the wine characteristics. The optimal quantity to add can be determined by a tasting [who said conventional winemakers didn’t taste their wines ? ;-)] …………………………………………….. This yeast provides wines with unique aromatic and sensorial complexity (whites, rosés and reds) :
_Marked aromatic diversity and intensity
_Definite impact on volume and length on the palate
_Aromatic purity (POF-, low production of acetaldehyde, acetoin and diacetyl)
_Reduction of volatile acidity production in sweet wine production
Combining XXX with YYY, helps exploit yeast biodiversity and more closely resembles natural fermentations, while also avoiding organoleptic deviations and preserving intended yeast fermentation fidelity.

[Note these last words : It seems that for the additives industry, “natural fermentation” exists by itself, as opposed to what I guess is the “non-natural fermentation” initiated by their products. Very interesting recognition of the concept of natural fermentation versus non-natural.] …………………………………………….. …to enhance the bouquet of finished wines or for the treatment of moldy must…It softens wine while improving aromas and flavors. …………………………………………….. Desirable aromas and flavors are retained while harsh characters are removed. It is particularly useful to optimize potential of hard pressed product. …………………………………………….. XXX is formulated to help prevent and/or treat compounds which cause pinking and browning. …………………………………………….. XXX is a 25% gum arabic preparation which offers both colloidal protection and the perception of sweet and soft characters on the palate… reduces astringency and increase feelings of volume and fullness in the mouth. …………………………………………….. XXX is specially formulated to clarify wine without impacting aroma, body or flavor. …………………………………………….. To keep fruit flavours and aromas at their highest, XXX recommends to manage malolactic fermentation with YYY , which does not produce buttery-like or dairylike flavours during fermentation, while stabilizing the wine and reducing the risk of biogenic amine production

Comments

[C Wells]

If all this is available on websites, why the need for XXX ? Because the sites are password protected ?

[Roelof Ligtmans]

Hello Bertand,

I'm sorry, but I can't get half a supset as you do!

When you read the "Pinot reserve recipe": this is what 90% of winemakers do, give or take the addition of yeast. But what is selected yeats? It is a selected organism, but completely natural. Like Charollais cattle, Ratte potatoes, cherry tomatoes: all selected, but natural. And what about 3-star Michelin cooking, it is all about recipe (and 1st class ingredients)!

Personally, as an organic wine grower (low yields, healthy grapes etc.), I use this kind of product occasionally. And of course only the non-OGM, natural kind, allowed by the (admittedly not very restrictive) rules for "bio" winemaking. I do not see the harm when I add 1 gram / 100 litres of tannins derived from grapes (100% natural), when they greatly improve the mouthfeel of my wine. Thats is what it is about, for me: small corrections on otherwise entirely natural wines, that do give you a better quality. What's wrong with that?

So I am not ready to denounce this kind of product completely, and find they do have a roile to play - on a limited basis, and of the non-OGM and/or chemical kind.

[SAHMmelier]

I don't even know what to say to that. When I was pregnant, I began to dig deeper into everything I put in and on my body. I found so many disturbing practices in the food and cosmetic industry that I was forced to rethink everything I purchased. There are times I wish I could "unlearn" it so that I could enjoy an old snack/product. Now I have to worry about wines, too? Yikes.

[Bert]

Why I changed the names for XXX ? No, the reason was that I wanted to put the spotlight on the enhancing properties, not the brand or particular product involved. The websites are not password protected (at least not all), you should be able to find most of the original webpages by googling the sentences.

[Bert]

Hi Roelof,

Thank you for your frankness. The issue here is just to tell the consumer what is done in the cellar : for this Pinot-Noir recipe, we have already three additives from this brand being encouraged to use, not counting other types of additives that Chr Hansen doesn't make. Most consumers have no idea these products are added during winemaking. I know there aren't many "bio winemaking" restrictions, at least in France, that's why winemakers who don't add anything (but occasionally a bit of sulfur) in their wines haven't joined a certification system for the cellar practice, but the totally-uncorrected wines speak by themselves more efficiently than a certification status.
The issue of this post is mostly about transparency : the consumers should know about the ingredients added into the juice or wine, whatever they are, and whatever their "natural" origin. When they'll know, let them choose to buy and like corrected wines, that's OK for me.

[Bert]

Hi SAHMmelier,

Yes, somehow I'm sorry to say that most consumers don't choose carefully-enough their wines. The amount of addings varies a lot in conventional wines, and some of these additives aren't very safe. We consumers at large have awakened to the issue of ingredients added into mass-produced food and the fine print on these foods, if not perfect in their transparency, help us at least know what we're eating. But there is no such mandatory labelling on the wine labels, including for the amount of pesticide residues. Speaking of the latter, it is interesting to note that the winemakers putting no additives at all in their wines use grapes farmed without pesticides and weedkillers.

[Hardy Wallace]

Thank you for posting this. Whether these products are naturally selected, organic, non-chemical, or whatever- they still are artificially altering the the structure, taste, and aromatics of the wine. No longer at the far edge, the influence of these products has led us from winemaking to beverage production.

[David A. Harvey]

A great piece of research - thank you. Sometimes a brutal list makes perfect sense of the data. Like in The Time for Tea by Pasqualini.

[Thierry Tung]

How can a consumers find additive free wine?

[Bertrand]

You have to look for wine shops who deal with these type of wines, which are usually called "natural wines" or non-interventionist wines, there's not a fixed name or regulation for these wines made without any additives. Some of these wines may have just a little bit of sulfur added, some don't even have any. France has now a growing number of wine shops centered on this type of additive-free wines, you'll find a few of them here (they're not all listed) :
http://www.wineterroirs.com/2007/02/paris_cavistes.html

[patrick]

I think the consumer is the source of all this. We all want our wine to be perfectly balanced, long aftertaste, nice complexity. We force winemakers to use artificial correctors. I'm a winemaker myself, just enough for my own daily glass. I know all these products, but I don't use a single one of it, only a bit of sulphur. But I can live with the imperfection of the wine, because it is 100% natural. Compare it to music, if you knew how many modifications are being made for the perfect recording on your disc, you wouldn't be able to enjoy music either. It's the consumer who forces perfection, the producer (who needs to make a living out of it) has no other option than following. A pity.