Gare de Lyon, Paris
This is a new exciting tasting event that took place in november near Gare de Lyon in Paris, in this vibrant former railways workshop structure that was turned into a versatile event
center, Ground Control. This is a professional-only event
organized by the people behind several other events, namely La Levée de la Loire, l'Association des Vins Libres d'Alsace (AVLA), Le Bec dans l'Aude and Rouge Provence. The idea is to gather after the end of the harvest 150 domaines mostly (90 %) organic, biodynamic and natural from most the French regions. There were about 900 wines to taste there. The event was free for media but otherwise the fee for the other professionals was very affordable, like 10 €. The tasting tables were set up in what I'd call the main room, plus a few other table rows on the other side, with all the permanent structure of this intriguing venue being in place as a unique setting. As usual I couldn't taste more than a dozen of domaines, especially that I was kind of in transit at that time in Paris, but you'll have an idea of the interest of this event. And sorry for this late publishing, i was very busy these days.
My first stop was for Domaine Le Haut-Planty as I recognized Michel Couillaud behiçnd his table and thought starting with a nice Melon de Bourgogne would put the tasting experience a a good track.
__ Primeur
Blanc 2023, a sample, without so2. Melon de Bourgogne, turbid, vivid and with richness in the mouth.
__ Gin Evan 2022, the older sister of this sample we just had, the Melon here has got a longer élevage. Young vines, aged 10 to 30. Bottled without so2 as well. This year the yields were 25-30 hectoliters/hectare. Clear white, limpid. Onctuous wine, liquid food, love it ! 8,5 € tax included at the domaine.
__ Les Yonnières 2021, a parcellaire cuvée from vines that are 45 years old. Energy feel in the mouth, really a terrific Melon de Bourgogne. Concentration, feels alive. I'm told the 2023 is soon ready.
__ One Musk a Night, a white vin de France 2021 with 8-day maceration then some time in amphora. Not a, orange wine though, I'm told. Turbid, wheat color. The 2023 soon ready as well. 4000 bottles maximum. Nice chew ! Iodine, saline feel.
__ One Way Ticket Seat 18A, Vin de France 2021. Oxudative wine. Very nice, neat wine, very reasonable oxidative style. Non-topped up, in old barrels with 300- 400- 500-liter capacity.
__ Abouriou 2021, vinified in tank, this is the cuvée with an anchor on the label. Fresh, short mouth, no added sulfites.
__ Abouriou, vinified in barrels, this is the cuvée with an octopus on the label. Much better Abouriou ! Ample, with breathing space. No added so2 as well.
Jocelyn Staderoli here comes from the Pays Nantais (Muscadet region) and worked with the Domaine Landron-Chartier which seems a good introduction. The Domaine Jocelyn Staderoli which was started in 2021 has a 4,5-hectare
surface (in conversion to organic), and in his former life, Jocelyn worked as sound engineer for the movie industry and TV. There are 4 varietals on the surface, white and red.
__ Mon Sot Mignon, vin de France 2022, Sauvignon Gris [or Fié Gris], a rare type of Sauvignon inj the region. Young vines : 9 years. Direct press. Unfiltered, indigenous yeast. Aromatic wine ! Passion fruit and other exotic fruits. Delicate, very Umami style, and harmonious ! 12,5 % alc. Very enjoyable. 10 € tax included at the domaine. Good deal.
__ Ma Muse Cadette [green label] 2022. Melon de Bourgogne from vineyard on upper slope. Nice to eat with.
__ Ma Muse Cadette [orange label] 2022, other parcel with lighter slope. Here the mouth feel is so smooth, superb ! More length also. 11 € public price (tax included) at the domaine. Recommended.
__ Ma Muse Cadette [brown label] 2022. Here élevage of 6 moths in old barrels. Here more substance and a light oaky feel. 20 mg so2 at bottling.
__ Ma Mâle Voisine, a rosé. Pinot Gris with maceration on skins (8 days). Elevage 6 months in barrels. The fermentation here was completed before thye maceration's end. Remontage every day. Tile color, light in color. Light astringency, quite delicate. Blind, it would be tricky to tell if it's a rosé, a white or a red. Very nice substance, very interesting ! 13 €.
__ Mon Gars Aymé, vin de France, a Gamay. Vinified in tank. No filtration, but anyway no wine is filtered here. 13,5 %. Not love at first sight for me here.
__ Mon Gars Berné, Gamay vin de France. 6 months in barrels, vinified like a Cabernet with more extraction, remontages & pigeages. Some bitterness in the mouth. Feels a bit high in alcohol in the mouth. 13,5 %.
I met Laurent Herlin a couple times in tasting events, he makes wine in Touraine (Loire). He was formerly dealing wit computers as an engineer
and chose the vigneron life in 2008. His vineyard surface today is around 6 hectares, farmed along biodynamie.
__ Tsoin Tsoin 2022, a red made with Cabernet Franc. This year was hot but he's looking to make light wines in terms of alcohol level. Super nice wine with a bit of astringency. 11,9 %. Laurent says he works with fermenters that are not big, the goal being to avoid having the grapes crushed under their own weight. Bottled in january.
__ Terre d'Adoption, Cabernet Franc 2021. Partly destemmed (if I understand my notes) and 8 months in tank. Bottled the following june. Tannins are rounder here, not bad ! 13 € public price at the domaine.
__ Illumination 2017, Cabernet Franc, destemmed grapes. One year in old barrels (4 to 8 years). Old vines here, 70 years. Bottled november 2018.
Sébastien du Petit Thouars and his wide D'Arcy (she is originally from Canada) is the 12th generation at the reins of the Chateau du Petit Thouars, a family domaine with vines that were
replanted a few decades ago on the property which was purchased by his ancestor George in 1636. The vineyards (surface now 15 hectares) are farmed organic since 2019, certified since 2022. THe domaine is located in Touraine (Loire), in Saint-Germain-sur-Vienne, near where the Vienne river flows into the Loire [one of the most beautiful areas of the Loire valley for me].
__ Chateau du Petit Thouars Blanc 2022. From a clos, vines aged 13. Fermented, vinified and élevage (10 months) in 3-year-old barrels. Malolactic completed, no intervention, 3 grams residual sugar.
__ George 2022, Chinon, Cabernet Franc. 10-day maceration with destemmed grapes, then in the pneumatic press. Sample because bottling in march 2024. Now in stainless tanks. Tannins can be felt but I guess on their way to integration.
__ George 2021, Chinon, Cabernet Franc. Alcohol feel more forward. Astringency as well.
__ L'Amiral, Chinon 2020. 100 % press juice, 2-year élevage in 2 to 3-year-old barrels. These are the oldest vines of the domaine (40 years). Some astringency also here. Quite difficult to drink at this time.
The Domaine Les Grandes Vignes also known as Famille Vaillant is a large family domaine with a vineyard surface of 55 hectares today. What makes it outstanding is that the farming is biodynamic (we often associate this demanding farming with small surfaces)
and that the wines really perspire
(in my opinion) this unmistakable energy and truth feel found in biodynamic natural wines. All here is labelled as Vin de France. The domaine is located in Thouarcé in Anjou (Loire).
__ La Varenne du Poirier 2021, Chenin. Not bad, gos down easy.
__ Les Mailles À L'Endroit 2021, Chenin.Acidulous feel, interesting and surprising. Elevage one year in 400-liter barrels. 11,7 € pro price.
__ La Varenne de Combre 2020, Chenin Blanc. Super energy in the mouth and when swallowed as well ! 16 € pro price. A bit expensive maybe.
__ Le Malabé 2020, Chenin. In 300-liter porcelain amphora (made by Bioytos). Super good as well ! 24 months of élevage, 1 year in 400-liter barrel and 1 year in amphora. Check this one, really nice.
__ Rosé, 100 % Groslot 2022, direct press. Generous in the mouth, goes down easy, lovely, and 11 % alcohol. Richness feel in the mouth, but no sugar left. 6,4 € pro price.
__ Le Petit Vaillant, no year on the label. Blend of Grolleau (30 %) and Cabernet Franc (70 %). Not bad, nice substance. 12 %.
__ 100 % Pineau d'Aunis 2022. Magic color. 11 % alc. The mouth is less exuberant than expected, I think needs to be tasted again in a year from now. 8,5 € pro price.
__ 100 % Cabernet Breton 2021. My opinion after I swallowed my sample : Oh yes, pas mal ! 6,4 pro price, good deal I think.
__ Les Mailles à l'envers 2018, Cabernet Franc, vines 25 years old. 36 months in barrels. Nice evolved color. Splendid Cabernet Franc ! Length, intensity, refineness, tannins ! 15,2 % alcohol but goes down very well ! 15 € pro. Super wine.
You may remember this domaine located in the Saumur-Champigny area from a story I wrote a few years ago, and Clos Cristal makes an outstyanding story on many levels. The story of this estate, its deep roots and lasting connection to the local hospital, plus the imaginative and
revolutionary vineyard management back in these years make it unique. Here is Clos Cristal's official website for more info. You can also learn from this Terre-de-Vins page that the Clos Cristal which is owned by the Hospital of Saumur is managed since 2018 by the Saumur Coopérative, named Cave Robert et Marcel.
__ Clos Cristal, Saumur Champigny 2017, 1st vintage since it changed management which was actually in 2016. Biodynamic farming but no certification. No filtration, no fining, no added so2. No pumping over. Hand picked, destemmed grapes. Elevage 18 months in demi-muids, and 1 year élevage in bottles in the cellar. Nice mouth, freshness and enjoyable substance with length and silky tannins. 36 € pro price. 65 € public price.
__ Clos Cristal, Saumur Champigny 2018. Different vintage, more sun in summer, 14,5 % alcohol. 2levage in new demi-muids. More inky aromas but with food will make the job.
__ Clos Cristal, Saumur Champigny 20189, intermediary vintage in terms of weather, tilts maybe more toward 2017. 13,5 %. 50 % of new oak demi-muids here, the rest one-wine old. Bottled may 2022. On the market since september 2023. Thet begin to export some wine, but it's recent.
The Domaine colin is one of the outstanding wine farms of the Vendômois region in the Loir valley (not to mistake with the Loire valley even though this sub region is part of the large Loire region. and of course with Vendômois or Coteaux du Loir we think
about Chenin Blanc and Pineau d'Aunis... The Domaine Colin has been taken over by Pierre-François, the son of Patrice Colin, since 2018. He farms two distinct
terroirs that sit 10 kilometers from each other and have surface of respectively 10 hectares and 20 hectares.
__ Domaine Colin Chenin Vieilles Vignes 2022. Vines aged from 50 to 80 years. In the mouth, some apparent feel of residual sugar but it's just that acidity in 2022 was lower than usual.
__ Les Vignes d'Emilien Colin 2022, a red. Named from the grand-grand-grandfather who relanted the vineyard in 1900/1920. Now they use a draft horse for the plowing between the rows in order to limit the accidental cutting of vines (with tractors). Here the tannins are a bit too present on the side of the mouth for me. 15 € public price at the domaine.
__ Intuition 2022, a red made with the oldest Pineau d'Aunis they have in the vineyard (planted in 1890). Also planted by their ancestor at the end of the 19th century. 13 %. Quite a tannic chew as well, albeit with rounder edges. Will be optimal in a couple of years I think. Buy in advance !
Simon Tardieu is located in the Cher valley (Loire) nearby many wine farms you certainly know, like Laurent Saillard, Noëlla Morantin, Julien Pineau and his grapes have oftern been bought by one of these domaines. I first met him with Didier Barrouillet at Clos Roche
Blanche, he had started his wine farm a
couple years before then. His vineyard surface is today 18 hectares spread on three terroirs, half reds (Gamay, Pineau d’Aunis, Côt, Cabernet Franc, Grolleau), half whites (Sauvignon, Chard, Menu Pineau).
__ Les Parcs 2022, Sauvignon. Vines aged 25 to 50. On a cool slope (north-east exposition) of Thésée (the village). 12,4 % alcohol. Very enjoyable, easy drinking and with length. Bottled april 2023. 6,8 € pro price.
__ Avec Vue sur le Cher 2021, Sauvignon. Slope expose on south-west close to the Cher river. Longer élevage in fiber tank and enamelled-metal tank, plus in bottles for 12 to 18 months. Nice tension. 10,15 €, good deal.
__ Le Temps des Orbois (Orbois is one of the other names for Menu Pineau) 2022. Bottled may 2023. The first vintage of this varietal (planted 3 years before). Nice energy in the mouth, intensity and enjoyable mouth touch, highly recommended !!
__ Le Temps des Aunis 2022, Pineau d'Aunis of course. Half the vines in this cuvée are 60 years old, the other half were planted in 2008, but 45 ares only in total. He also has an additional 20 ares from which he makes a rosé. From what I understand he also replanted 60 more ares in 2021 which he picked this year for a rosé and sparkling. For this Pineau d'Aunis red I'm tasting, he says Didier Barrouillet called this cuvée back in the years "Les Arpents Rouges". Nice translucent color, the mouth feel is a bit inky (in spite of the light color), not really the Aunis I'm use to or expect but in my opinion will be worth the investment in a few bottles in a couple of years. 11,5 % alcohol.
__ Touraine 2021, blend of Gamay & Côt. 11,3 % alcohol. Not bad, nice drinkability. Tangential filtration here. So2 : 35/40 total. 6,5 € pro. Good deal. Would be terrific unfiltered I think.
The domaine Sauvète is located in Touraine (Loire) near Chenonceaux, its vineyard surface is 18 hectres, farming has been organic for 23 years, to which they've
been adding biodynamie
since 4 years.
__ Touraine Sauvignon 2022. In 2022 they were spared hail, unlike the previous years when they lost 70 % of the fruit. 11 € public price at the domaine.
__ Touraine Chenonceaux Onigros 2020. Vines on slopes. Quite rich in the mouth, high alcohol feel as well. 14 %. 14 € public price.
__ Les Gravouilles, Gamay 2021. Quite light color. Vinified in tanks. 12 %. 11 € public price. Filtered. So2 added at bottling.
__ Antea 2020, blend of Côt (90 %) and Cabernet Franc (10 %).Inky wine with integrated tannins, but astringency still at this point.
__ Osmose 2017, 100 % Côt, vinified in barrels (one year). Beautiful gustative resonance when swallowed.Super nice, inky too, but with very rejoicing feel. 14,5 % alcohol. 21,5 € public price.
Le Clos Saint Jean is located in the Côte Roannaise area which is the eastern-most sub-region of the
Loire region, it's close to the extinct volcanoes of Auvergne. The domaine is farmed organic since 1994 and has a vineyard surface of 6 hectares, mostly Gamay (one hectare of Chardonnay).
__ Clos Saint Jean Tradition AOP Côte Roannaise 2022. Gamay. Quite tannic.
__ Passion Volcanique, Côte Roannaise 2022, another Gamay, a bit easier tannin-wise. Vinified in cement tank. 10,5 € at the domaine. Quite fresh. I'd like to taste this one again in some time, looks good.
The Domaine Einhart is located a mere 30 kilometers from Strasbourg in Alsace, Nicolas and Théo (father and son) work on about 10 hectares with organic farming, they vinify the wines naturally.
__ Riesling
PuR'aisin (forgot to note the year but I presume 2022), vines on clay/limestone
soil then quickly you get the rock table underneath. Lieu-dit Kreuzweg. Vinified withour additives nor sulfites. Super neat and pleasurable. 17 € at the domaine.
__ Oolithe Blanc 2022, vines on clay/limestone silts. Blend of Sylvaner, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, all picked & vinified separately (and not complanted). Elevage on fine lees, unfiltered, no added so2. It's kind of an Edelzwicker but not officially declared as such. He says here the clay modifies the textures : wider, richer. 12 €, good deal ! 8000 bottles of this.
__ Frohnberg 2022, blend of Auxerrois & Pinot Gris. Also of course no added so2, no additives, unfiltered. What a mouth and swallowing experience !! Slopes (15 % to 20 % steep) exposed on East and on silts. Elevage in 550-liter eggs. Public price 20 €.
__ Muscat 100 %, slope (30 % steep) expose South on silts. 12 % alcohol. On all the labels you can read : "Vin Naturellement Vivant". Turbid color, hoeneyish color. Blend actually of 50 % Muscat Rose, 25 % Muscat Ottonel and 25 % Muscat à Petits Grains. Powerful aromatics with marqued white tannins. There was a 6-day maceration here, 100 % whole clusters.
__ Pulsart 2021, 100 % Gewürztraminer. Turbid, dark white, cause 10-day maceration. 13,5 % alcohol. A bit concentrated, somehow too much for me, but second sip not that bad.
__ Pinot Noir 2022, 12-day maceration. 12 % alcohol. So good !! I often use to say that Alsace Pinot Noir rocks, and this is the case again here ! Will certainly be at best if you wait 2 years to open the bottle, but still don't miss the opportunity if you see this on the shelves.
There were plenty of knowledgeable wine people in this event, here on the right you have the guys from the Cave de Belleville, a good place to find natural wine in Paris.
another guy I already met was there, Thibault Simon, who is the wine person at the Japanese A.T. restaurant
Les Jardins en Chantant which is managed by Gabriel & Léa Willem is a collective farm located in Alsace and producing biodynamicly-grown vegetables as well as natural wines; and they also serve food in summer. This is south of Colmar, was started in 2019 and the farm surface is 1,5 hectare plus purchased grapes. Gabriel was formerly a musician and
Léa a graphic designer.
The wines can be found in Paris at Rerenga Wines, a caviste in the 10th arrondissement. They have 5 cuvées (no more than 500 bottles per cuvée), 2 whites, 2 reds, an oxidative.
__ La Mumu de Jeff 2022, a 3-day maceration of Muscat. Label designed by Gabriel's father. Gabriel says he started with the vegetable garden part of the farm. 11 % alcohol. Super nice. Unfiltered, unfined, no added so2. 14 € at the domaine; you'll pay 28 € at the caviste.
__ La Griffe de Gniff 2022, a rosé, made from a maceration of all the varieties of the farm, seven of them, all white varieties here. Turbid and pink. Maceration/carbo lasted 3 weeks, then 12 months on lees in a 600-liter pear-shaped demi-muids. Aromatic, exciting, you need to try that. 14 € pro.
__ Ranyoot 2022, 10 % Pinot Noir, négoce wine, made from abandoned parcels. 10-day infusion, whole-clustered grapes. Nice turbid color. 12,5 % alc. Superb mouth ! Acidic, vibrant ! Delicate and pure. Pro price 14 €. Great deal. They export in the United States through D-I Wines
__ Gamay sous mon Piano 2022, vin de France like the rest. Tickling feel of energy on the mouth. Here carbo for 30 days with overmaturity grapes. 14,5 %.
__ Mo 2021 (MO for Mes Origines, also from Marie-Odile, Gabriel's mother name). Parcel of the domaine :20 %Pinot Gris, 80 % Gewürztraminer, 10-day maceration. Vinified half in (cement I guess) eggs, half in qvevri interred in the vineyard, sous voile. Superb mouth !! Length, intensity ! Brilliant ! 24 € pro.
La Folie Lucé is located in Anjou (Loire). Works since 2009 on 6 hectares.
Loïc Teurquem was working
in computers before becoming a vigneron.
__ Encore 2021, Saumur Chamigny. Cabernet Franc on sandy silts. Well-integrated tannins. A bit sharp at this stage, I'd say, can wait.
__ Autrement 2011, Cabernet Franc, 24 months in new oak, vines on clay/limestone. Nice evolution feel, good to drink now. 11,25 € pro. 18 mg total so2. unfiltered.
__ Pacha 2020, this red was named from the nickname of his father who passed away in 2021. Atypical cuvée. 13 %. Still a bit square but interesting.
__ L'Ecart 2021, a white made from Chenin Blanc. Soil : clay and sand on limestone. 11,25 € pro.
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